Im not sure Mick but i filled it with grease about 6 yrs ago coz it was so stiff at the time. It worked coz water came out when i put the grease in.
Cheers Rod
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Rod,
do you know if the nipple on top was for injecting grease or oil into the relay?
Cheers, Mick.
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
Im not sure Mick but i filled it with grease about 6 yrs ago coz it was so stiff at the time. It worked coz water came out when i put the grease in.
Cheers Rod
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They are supposed to be filled with oil. Grease is better than water or nothing, but the problem with grease is that it does not soak into the fibre bushes, so they eventually will be running dry, wearing more rapidly.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Todays effort was to fit the new seals to the steering relay. I sourced these from CBC bearings, part number
TC12043.
They were a tight fit on the shaft, as i would want, and fitted correctly into the top and bottom plates. Great. Now to fill with oil. What a miserable job that is. In the end i had removed two top bolts, opposite each other, put the relay in the vice, at an angle, so one hole was higher than the other. This was in an effort to get the air to come out as the oil went in. Hmmm. In the end i got a nozzle of a sealant cartridge and cut about 8mm of the end. I screwed it into the bolt thread hole in the relay, and using a Nulon gearbox additive tube filled with gear oil, i slowly added oil into the nozzle, till it drained into the relay. Oil bubbles were coming out the other hole, as all the while, i was moving the lever around, and getting the air to come out. Cool. When there was no more bubbles and oil was coming out the top hole, i removed the nozzle, and let the oil settle to the lower bolt's level, so as to keep some air inside the relay, to allow for heat expansion. I then fitted the relay to the chassis. I put inti sieze grease on the two top bolts and tightened them up. I had trouble getting the four lower bolts to start coz of the paint in the threads. I tapped the threads clean, put anti sieze onto the bolts and fitted them. I then fitted both the arms to the relay at 90 deg. from each other as the s2a is supposed to be. I noted that s3 are different in that the arms are about 80 ish deg. I touched up the paint and that was it, done!
I then checked out my steering tubes.
I need to get 4 new tie rod ends.
I removed the old ones and noted that the thread inside the tubes, dont start for about an inch inside them.
The part where the clamp is has no thread.
Is this the later type of tie rod end that i need to get?
The thread on the old ends have a shoulder, (see pics), but the clamps were still clamping the threaded part of the ends.
Ive read that there were changes made to these ends and steering tubes.
I would like to make sure i get the right ones.
I have the tubes soaking in molasses atm to clean them up. I will have to find where i can source the correct tie rod ends.
Cheers Rod
NOTE;
Pic 4, shows the threaded end of the tie tod. This is actually the original tie rod, fitted from the factory, with its undercoat and top coat, in the vehicles original colour, light grey. So the steering tubes are still original.
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The later type has both the tube and the TRE threaded all the way, but the earlier type has the unthreaded part of the tube much longer than the unthreaded part of the TRE. Although the clamp is not right at the end of the tube, because the bit beyond it will be bent in further, the bit that closes the most will be right at the end. The longer unthreaded bit in the tube is actually so it doesn't clamp on the thread - it has, or should have, clearance from the thread, even when the clamp is tightened.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Well during the week i ordered 2x l/h and 2x r/h threaded tie rod ends from for Betsy from England. At least i'll get the right ones.
Today i fitted 4 ex military series 2a wheels to the chassis. They fitted beautifully over the disc brake setup. So, to all the nay sayers, series wheels DO fit on the heysyee disc conversion. I will have to adjust the steering stops in a bit as there is still a lot of room between the chassis and the tyres. Im really happy with the fit of the conversion setup and especially being able to run stock series wheels. See the pics.
Now the chassis is back on wheels and off the rotisserie. I spose i should fill the diffs and swivel housings with oil now before i forget. I might use half oil and a whole shot of swivel grease as well in the fronts. Not sure atm. It's what i had before in the 2a swivels. I also have breathers on the swivel housings as well. That will stop them sucking in water when tyey are hot, i hope.
I feel that i've finally acomplished something now with my rebuild.
Im pleased with myself.
Cheers Rod
⤵⤵⤵
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Couple more pics⤵
Cheers Rod
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It's going together well Rod.
Well done!
Cheers, Mick.
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
Hi Mick, i just remembered that you wanted some pics of the marks cabstar transfer case adaptor i have so i dug it out and snapped a few. I hope they turn out ok.
Cheers Rod
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Another job done for Betsy. I got a pintle hook adaptor for the tow receiver i have on Betsy. This way i can tow my No.5 trailer or any other trailer. It will also fit in the front receiver i will use as a recovery point for towing out discos and toyotas and nissans...lol.
Just gotta make the lunette ring turn now.
Cheers Rod
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