Thread: Betsy, my 67 s2a build.

Well today i got a late start. Couldnt get motivated. So im cleaning out threads. The thread i found yesterday that i thought was stripped wasnt. It was just a bit damaged by the bolt that was in there. Cleaned tbe bolt up and the thread...all good. Ran the thread tap through all the threads on the front of the motor with the tap in the drill set on a low clutch setting. All cleaned out. Then i went through my parts for the timing set. Hmmm. Found the new chain i have is longer by one complete link, one inner and one outer link, than the one that came off the engine. Now my engine came out of a s3 1975 diesel. It also had a block type tensioner not the chain wheel one it says in the manual. So im thinking the block type chain must be shorter coz of this. To the parts manual. Will have to sort it out on tuesday now. More expense. Hmmm. Thats as far as ive gotten today so far. Im clearing the bench so i can clean some parts and the crank.
Bugger.

Cheers Rod

So i cleaned the crank and gave the journals a little polish with 1200. I temporarily fitted the crank and thrusts. I checked the end float. 0.006th. Just on the max limit. That will do me. I removed the crank and cleaned the rear main cap with 240 wet n dry. Then i put the block up on the bench so i had better access to the rear main seal area. I then cleaned up the rear main bearing journal and T seal areas. Tomorrow i have to get some silicone grease and loktite 515 to seal the rear seal caps and silastic for the rear T seals. I wont be fitting the T seals i'll just be using silastic coz it wont leak. Then ill tighten down the crank etc. Maybe fit pistons and rods. Not sure about that just yet. See what happens tomorrow.

Cheers Rod


Couple missing pics from previous post...

Today i bit the bullet and fitted the crank shaft. Fitted the new rear seal kit. Bugger of a job trying to get my big hands in to hook the garter spring together. Got it in the end. New seal retainers as well. Sealed the T seal slots with silastic instead of using the cork seals. Worked a treat. Then came time to fit the new pistons. So i fitted the new pistons after setting the ring gaps up. All fitted and working great. Just got to get new conrod nuts. Didnt know i had to replace them. Im still tossing up getting new thrusts coz they are just in tolerance. Might get the 0.0025 th ones coz im paranoid now that the ones in the petrol motor i had dropped into the sump destroying the block n crank. Grrr. Anyway im over that. I wrapped the motor up in glad wrap to keep it clean. I went thru the oil pump. All good there. I fitted a new o ring to the filter screen. I cleaned up the old petrol motor timing cover coz the diesel one is buggered.


Tomorrow i need to get welch plugs coz theyre stuffed after i knocked them out to check. Im always wondering why some ppl replace only the leaking one or 2 instead of replacing all of them. The rest are gonna rust through shortly anyway.
Where was I? Oh yes tomorrow need welch plugs, shorter timing chain, new conrod nuts. Sure theres something else.

Pretty busy day today. All good

Cheers Rod

Hi Rod.
What's the theory with using wet & dry on the journal surfaces? Are you looking to take glaze off?
Chris.

Originally Posted by cjc_td5

Hi Rod.
What's the theory with using wet & dry on the journal surfaces? Are you looking to take glaze off?
Chris.

I did it to just polish them up just incase there was any minor damage and it helped me to see if the journals were ok. Ive seen them done like that before so ive always done it. No other reason than that.

Cheers Rod

Well last night at the LRRSA meeting i discovered that the shorter timing chain had a master link. Im disapointed in myself for not finding it sooner. I just laid out $60.00 for a new chain thats already in the mail. I have a new chain here thats the correct length if the engine is fitted with the original type sprocket and ratchet tensioner. So i ground off 4 pins and fitted the master link to the new (was longer) chain and it fits perfectly. The valve timing is now set and the injector pump hasnt been moved so it should still be good. Ive located the timing cover bolts and water pump bolts and they are soaking in petrol to get the sillyastic off them. I will clean up the bolts on the wire wheel and run the die down them to clean the threads up. So today i will have the timing cover and water pump fitted. Just have to wait for the new conrod nuts then i can fit the oil pump and sump.

Supervisor keeping an eye on me again...



Cheers Rod

Quick pic of where the older type tensioner was fitted some time in the past. Block has damage but is superfishal. (Bad spelling?).

Cheers Rod

Timing cover and water pump on and tight.
Now need to find a paint code for "duck egg blue".

Cheers Rod