Printable View
you need to decompress it, you need to pre heat it you need to start one pot then get the others up..
it is not as easy as you think the later 2.25s are higher compression than the early ones.
you can also start one with a shotgun shell, the crank handle and a 6v dolphin torch battery (and a little wire)
In case I loose track of the thread someone PM me when you want the answers to how for both methods.
Dave, Would that be why the old bloke wound it around a few times? to get the pots right and decompress it? Been a long time since I saw it done :)
Cheers Scott
No John I didn't LOL (going blind) but my mate used to start his S2A diesel 109 if the battery were flat, he would jack up the right hand rear wheel, remove wheel, have in rear wheel drive only, chock front wheels put a tyre lever into the wheel studs and jump on the lever, and to my surprise it started, but there would be no way I would ever try it, cheers dennis
Not sure where that comes from - the 2.0 is 22.5:1, the 2.25 is 23:1. For comparison, with similar vintage designs, the 4BD1 is 17:1 and the Perkins 354 is 16:1. Modern turbocharged direct injection diesels tend to be even lower. The Lister diesels mentioned earlier in this thread are about 15:1.Quote:
Originally Posted by schuy1
John
Friend of mine has a s3 diesel, next time i see him ill get my crank handle out and try to crank start it. But ill cheat coz ill try 2 do it with the engine already warm😆
Cheers Rod
Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dinty
Yes, that would work, although you would want to be fairly heavy or a long lever. And hope the lever fell off the wheel when the engine started - it probably would, but it is a risk. If it failed to do so, I would think there'd be a good chance of the vehicle jumping off the jack before the engine stalled. Of course, a driver in the seat ready to jump on the clutch would be a valuable precaution.
Might be possible to use the crank handle with a suitable extension as well, although I am not certain the crank handle would be strong enough. At least it has automatic disengagement though.
John
ok, first up...
shot gun shell.
set fuel on, set 1/2 throttle, crack #1 injector, rocker cover off, roll the engine over until the exhaust valve on 1 closes and the rocker goes loose, pry ti up and insert about 1/8th of an inch of washers between the rocker and the valve. make sure you have a good bit of tie wire looped through them to enable you to pull them out, do the same for #2
make sure the engine turns over and the valves dont meet pistons.
roll it over again until #3 is at about 20ATDC AND injector 1 is spitting fuel out of the union.
remove the glow plug, open the shotgun shell, through a bit of fine pipe pour in the powder from the shotgun shell, about half of it, wet the glow plug with a little bit of diesel from the #1 union, dip it into the left over powder, pour in the rest of the powder and then carefully wind in the glow plug.
short the glow plug to the 6v battery when it gets hot enough it will fire the poweder that shoves #3 down and if you've got everything right it will then fire #4 and run very roughly rip out the decompression spacers from the exhaust valves on 1+2 then close the injector union on #1 put the rocker cover back on.
If you need to preheat #4.. dont . change it up so that you're working on pots 2+1 open up the valves on 1 and put a hot air torch into the inlet manifold you may also want to remove #1 glow plug. IF your glow plugs and battery are good enough you can wire it up so that the battery will turn on both the glow plugs on the cylinders that are going to try to fire.
THIS WONT WORK... if you have the aftermarket 12v glowplugs you must have the 3v wire all in series with a dirty great resistor style glow plugs.
Me and a mate had a few beers today.
Told him AULRO is talking about hand cranking cars today lmfao!!
Oh did we laugh our asses off. Seriously it was damn funny and i still chuckle at this thread.
Great stuff guys.........
even with a warmed up 2.25 diesel you wont crank start it without prepwork...
first you need to preheat the cylinders, I like to work with #3 as the cylinder Im going to try to start on. Set fuel on, full fuel position
you need to open up all the valves on all cylinders with 1/8-3/16 inch spacer stacks of washers held together with tie wire so they are ready to yank out. rocker cover off, turn the engine over slowly and as each rocker goes loose pry it up and insert your washer stack
open up all the injector unions and wind the engine over until you have fuel coming out of all the injector unions close them up.wind it over a couple more times
wind the engine over until #3 (or your cylinder of choice) is at about 10-15 DATC on the power stroke, use a tyre lever to lift the inlet and exhaust valves as open as you can get them put your blow torch into the inlet manifold and let it do its magic, you need to get the manifold hot, the piston hot and remove the glow plug from #3 to make sure that hot air is coming out #3, go check the exhaust and make sure air is coming out of that too. (it wont be hot but you need the air coming out that tells you that you're getting heat to where you need it most).
when you're ready to go and youve psyched yourself up (a helper helps with the next bit) drop the tyre levers out whip the blow torch out of the manifold but leave it where it is blowing hot air (not flame) into the manifold) get on the crank handle and get some inertia up on the crank and then whip out the spacer stacks on #3, if you get it right they come out as the inlet rocker for #2 starts to open, you now have 1+3/4 turns left before #3 fires, you need to give it everything. once it fires start pulling out spacers, ALWAYS pull inlets before exhausts. as the revs come up back off the fuel.
put the rocker cover back on.
It can help to select 4 Hi with both back wheels up off of the ground so you're building inertia in the entire driveline as opposed to just the engine. the wheels are very very big flywheels.
it will work with just one wheel up and if you have a good mate some rope and someone to work the clutch you can get it to go by wrapping the wheel picking second gear have someone hold the clutch in and then run with the rope and at the opportune moment dump the clutch.
Yes, Cartons were invovled along with some "told you you could crank start a landrover diesel." The fact that I happened to be leaning on a perentie at the time the comment was made and they didnt assume I was talking about a Series was not my fault. the badge on the grill said landrover.
Both very engenius methods. I will try them at some stage.
Aaron