Must be losing the mind then? Am sure the old bloke cranked it no problems. Methinks the procedure is becoming entwined with myth and wikki craft...........
Cheers Scott
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Must be losing the mind then? Am sure the old bloke cranked it no problems. Methinks the procedure is becoming entwined with myth and wikki craft...........
Cheers Scott
just be careful with the shotgun load...
to much will liberate you precombustion chamber from the head.
(works great on the tdi(x)00 tho)
if you have a not flat battery and just need to give it enough to help the starter get to turning over its easy to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by schuy1
the 2.25 petrol however...
a good one can be gotten to start with 3-4 priming turns of the crank handle and 1 good flick
A really good one, primed up right you can get to start with just the dolphin torch battery without having to pull the crank handle after you have the engine primed and positioned correctly
Why not just park on a hill????
😆😆😆😆😆😆
Cheers Rod
Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app
They tell me a T Ford could similarly be started simply by switching it on when running on the battery.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
Aaron
A bit hard when you are already parked front in at the supermarket carpark and the sprag clutch chooses that moment to stop locking up.Quote:
Originally Posted by 67hardtop
This is also the ultimate Land Rover conundrum. To park on a hill because the starter motor doesn't work, or to park on the flat because the hand brake doesn't work and the engine has lost compression.
Aaron
If you prime it right, yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron IIA
that was the inspiration behind the "Hrmmm, I wonder moment" that lead to getting a 2.25 to do it, took a bit of thinking tho.
it was also possible to do it if you had a really good maggy on it and could pop it on the advancer coupling by hand.
How do you get it to work with the battery coil ignition? You normally have to break the circuit to cause the magnetic field to collapse to generate the high voltage. Do you disconnect the lantern battery to get it to fire once, then quickly connect it again?
Aaron
thats surprisingly close.
More or less correct. (I learn't to drive partly on one). The Model T and earlier FOrds had separate vibrator coil for each cylinder, with two positions for the ignition switch. "BAT" runs the ignition from battery, until 1917 dry batteries, after that optional generator and starter allowed operation from a 6v battery. "MAG" runs the ignition and optionally electric headlights from a flywheel low tension magneto.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron IIA
Normal starting procedure was to ensure the handbrake was on (which automatically engages neutral), fuel on, ignition off, spark fully retarded, hand throttle full. Crank past four compressions, holding the choke rod (comes out of the bottom RH corner of the radiator) out as you do. Stop just past the last compression. Ignition on, throttle four notches, and slowly advance the spark. With any luck, engine starts. Without luck, retard the spark again, and a single gentle crank should see it running. Once the engine is running, switch across to "MAG", and advance spark to about half.
John