Thread: S2A bit and pieces.

G'day Glen,

The Transfer Gearbox does have a breather system and it's not very obvious.
The Transfer G/B has a groove machined in the face where it mates with the main G/B top cover. It is approx 8mm x 65 mm long.
The breather hole is located on the rear passenger side corner of the square cover that sits over the ends of the Main G/B selectors shafts where the end stop adjustments are. The hole is tiny.!!!and clogs up easily.
I modified mine by fitting a 1/8" copper tubing in the hole and bending it down over the back of the housing so the end is protected from mud etc.
Chris

Ahh, I currently have the transfer case separated from the gearbox and that slot is visible now. Yeah, the breather hole in the cover plate really is tiny!

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Thanks to 67hardtop (Rod) my rear diff now sports a NOS long axle; the center is back in and I'm finishing off the hubs (new seals, etc).



I have two different hub drive members. The round one pictured on the right isn't actually detailed in my 1968 parts catalog. Only the star-shaped one is drawn and only one part number is specified along with a quantity of 2.

So I'm just wondering if the round drive member is an original fitment or not (it wouldn't be the first omission I've found in the parts catalogue). The round drive member would be a stronger, so I'm guessing that these may have been made for the right hand side, as, being non limited slip differentials, in 99% of driving condition where both wheels have traction, that's the side that is dealing with the majority of the torque, right?

One last thing - is the hub end float really critical and do I really need to go out and buy a dial indicator, so as to perform the setting procedure detailed in the workshop manual? Is it acceptable to simply nip up the bearing adjuster nut for zero end float and then back off a half a turn or a turn or something?

Round one on late s2a star shaped one on late s1 and s2 and very early s2a. Id use the round one as its got the plug for checking and topping up oil level in rear hub. In my experience the hub should have no end float. I just nip them up gently till theres no end float and lock em up.

Cheers Rod
Ps dont throw away the drive flange bolts as they are special threads and may not be available. They do come loose and can drop out. Good to keep spares
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Thanks Rod; I was going to grease pack my hubs instead of oil filling as the workshop manual actually recommends to do that instead. The star-shaped one does have the oil-fill screw though as well, though it's half covered in gunk in the photo. In the photo it's between the two bottom-most flange bolts.

The oil will get into the bearings anyway from the end of the stub axles. Grease is good. Ive done mine the same b4. I just noticed the plug in the other drive member as well.

Cheers Rod

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OK, quite glad that I didn't throw those original drive member mounting bolts out now! They're 3/8" BSF according to the parts catalogue, though getting replacements the exact same length might be a hassle.

Since they have a propensity to fall out I think I'll re-fit them with some Loctite thread-locker applied.

The usual Land Rover suppliers carry the correct bolts.

215331 | Drive Flange Bolt - Paddock Spares


Colin

Originally Posted by 68s2alwb

OK, quite glad that I didn't throw those original drive member mounting bolts out now! They're 3/8" BSF according to the parts catalogue, though getting replacements the exact same length might be a hassle.

Since they have a propensity to fall out I think I'll re-fit them with some Loctite thread-locker applied.

Yes, they are 3/8" BSF, and are a pain to find. (They remained the same to the end of Series production)

In my experience flange bolts coming loose very often is a pointer to excess free play on wheel bearings (which makes sense if you think about it. Also, be cautious about overtightening them, as the will stretch.

John