Thread: S2A bit and pieces.

Regarding the gearbox breather, I drill and tap and fit a series axle breather You know, the 1 that has the little ball in it. So far its worked well.
Cheers Scott

Yeah, that's what I still intend to do...


BS Pipe is used for the water jacket plugs in the 2.25L head. Can't say I've knowingly encountered BS Conduit yet.

Originally Posted by 68s2alwb

Yeah, that's what I still intend to do...


BS Pipe is used for the water jacket plugs in the 2.25L head. Can't say I've knowingly encountered BS Conduit yet.

I think it is one of the block plugs, designed for a block heater.

John

The engine heater plug is BSP, along with the outlets for the cabin heater. Underneath the manifolds, in the block, there are two or three BS Conduit core plugs. They may not have a head, aa they are peined into place to expand and seal.

Aaron

G'day guys. Have been absent for a while and did little until recently on the Land Rover, but am getting motivated again with the return of some decent (not depressing) weather. Attached are some photos of the current state of assembly. I currently have a bunch (the very last) of bits at the grit blasters which will then go out for galvanizing. This includes the gearshift/transfer levers, gear box (which is currently out again) mounting brackets/cover plates/etc and the windscreen frame. I also have a order on the way of just about all of remaining components needed (mostly brake parts, including a complete pre-made kit of brake lines). There are only a few interior panels which still need to be painted green and these are currently at the paint shop to be finished next week.

So, basically, I'm stuck ATM just waiting for bits, but in a week or two the final assembly will be able to start in earnest. I'm hoping to get it on the road by Christmas or at the latest very early in the new year. Not 100% sure what kind of rear body I am going to build for it as of yet, but to get in on the road legally I will have to get maybe Gitsham or Combo to fabricate some rear wheel guards for it which I will have to figure out how to bolt/clamp to the chassis. In addition to that I'll have to attach a varnished timber beam to the rear cross member to support some tail lamp assemblies.

There are a few missing bits and bobs that I will be chasing up secondhand. Will eventually post a list....

Cheers,
Glen

Hi Glen, nice work !!


I too have an ex-army 2a, and I would like to paint it in a similar colour to what you have done yours. Can you please tell me if the colour you chose is the general Land Rover Coniston green colour, or the army olive green, or something else ?


Also, did you have to do any repair work on the front guards before painting ?


Thanks
john

Thanks John,

The paint is an original Land Rover green but I don't have the paint code at hand. When I pick up the last of the painted panels (seat box lids and gearbox cowling) from the painter (hopefully late this week) I'll be able to get the details.

My LR was originally a civilian PMG vehicle (ute body), painted grey. I converted to a truck cab as my original rear body was beyond repair and my original front guards were scrapped as well. I found the pair of Army guards in fairly decent nick. I don't recall them requiring any major repairs, but one of them did have a little more bog in it to get straight than what it should have had (a little panel beating sorted that out), though I've been lead to believe that that is typical for Army-modified panels on these old vehicles.

The guards as I got them:



Cheers,
Glen

OK, sitting here now looking at the pictures of my Amy guards leads to the following questions...

Is the rubber gasket that located the plastic lens inside the blackout light housing and buffered the outer cover from the front guard still available? My original disintegrated upon disassembly so it wasn't salvageable. Were these blackout lights a generic component (the plastic lens has brand name "Hella" molded into it) or were they specifically made to order or modified for the Army vehicles?

I can't think of a really satisfactory way of mounting the blackout light assembly without a replacement gasket. If they aren't available anymore I think I'll re-locate the oval radiator grille badge to the drivers side front guard to cover the hole once occupied by this blackout light.

Cheers,
Glen