Thread: S2A bit and pieces.

Dunno if cork would be durable enough. I guess I could make a gasket out of four layers of 3mm-thick rubber sheet cut into ovals as per the crappy drawing attached below. The bottom oval is larger to act as a buffer between the light outer cover and the guard. The layers could be glued together with contact adhesive. Hmmm.... might go to Clarke Rubber on the weekend.

Think I've found an alternative to the unusable/poor quality aftermarket guard lights. I picked up one of these generic (Narva brand) trailer indicator lights which take festoon bulbs from Autobarn just to see what it looks like. I can't find any examples in the original dome shape style, but I think these still look quite OK.
Beneath the rubber gasket they have a thick flat steel base which can be easily drilled for the three standard mounting holes in the guard. They also come in a clear lens so that will have the front side lamps sorted.

All that work making it look good and you are going to fit with those non standard lights.
You can buy a set of original looking lights for $88 plus postage here.
By the way, that is a nice looking paint job!

Land Rover Parts - VEHICLE LAMP SET - SERIES 11A, 111, 110 & DEFENDER (upto & inc. 200tdi models)


Cheers, Mick.

Those are the lights I already wasted money on. They are unusable - see my opening post to this thread.

If you search on ebay you will find better quality ones (from the UK) for sale, some used, others new old stock.
Bearmach do them too, but they could be the same or similar quality to the ones you have.
Rimmer Brothers have genuine Land Rover ones ( tail/stop, indicator, and side light) listed.



http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID000341

Cheers, Mick.

Originally Posted by mick88

Land Rover Parts - VEHICLE LAMP SET - SERIES 11A, 111, 110 & DEFENDER (upto & inc. 200tdi models)

Originally Posted by 68s2alwb

Those are the lights I already wasted money on. They are unusable - see my opening post to this thread.

Did you get the $88 aftermarket version, or the $138 Wipac / OEM version?

Aaron

I bought the cheap set and haven't had any problems. (So far).

Cheers,
D

I bought the aftermarket ones. As stated in my first post, this was a number of years ago now and the quality may well have improved.

Anyway, the Narva lamps are already fitted. Opinions may vary but, despite not being the original style, I think that they don't look any better or worse than the OEM style lights. I re-drilled the based so that they mount to the panels existing holes, so at any time in the future if I feel like spending some superfluous money I can always swap them over. Don't think I will though.

I picked up the last of the interior panels from the painter this morning. John, the paint is "Land and Range Rover 1958 - 1980-something". "Bronze Green / Ascot Green". Unfortunately I can only read the first two digits of the "OEM code" as paint has been spilled on the tin label. They are "00".

Got my seat box mostly assembled this afternoon. The adjustable seat mounts for the adjustable (sliding) drivers seat are giving me a bit of hassle. They are pretty rusty and in need of an overhaul but they weren't designed/manufactured to be disassembled.

Used house door jam weather strip to seal the cover plates. I now realise that I put the handbrake lever rubber on inside out, but that will have to be removed again anyway when the seat box goes in.

Had a reasonably productive weekend. Got the girl up on stands/blocks and started rebuilding the brakes and hubs in earnest. So far I've done all of the necessary dismantling and have started to clean parts.

The left hand swivel hub got water inside it at some stage (worn seal) and was moderately rusty inside. The other side was free of water and rust but still full of horrible dirt-infused grease. Along with the seals the roller bearings will need to be renewed as well. Fortunately the swivel housings cleaned up well and the plating is still in acceptably good nick. Funny enough where the plating has deteriorated it is mostly on surfaces areas not exposed externally.

There isn't much wear at all inside the drums, but they are heavily coated in surface rust. I will have them sandblasted and machined before repainting.

The next thing I have to start thinking about organizing is replacement wheels. My original rims are badly rusted on the inside and to have them sandblasted and professionally painted would cost more than new replacements.

Do these stock rims from Rover Parts look like a good deal?

Land Rover Parts - ROAD WHEEL - STEEL (STANDARD) LAND ROVER SERIES & DEFENDER (5.5X16, +33mm OFFSET)

Does anyone know if these rims would accept a tubeless tire? On a non-split rim I'd prefer a tubeless because most punctures are easily field reparable. I'd be happy with tubed tires on split rims though. I've got most of Len Beadell's books and he writes endlessly about pulling apart his Landy's split rims and mending inner tubes in the evenings. Were split rims ever a factory option? Is there a new split rim option available today?