Thread: Series 2a tie rod ends - which ones?

Pull your ends out and order the ends that suit your tie rod and drag link. There is a possibility that the tie rod and drag link have been replaced from factory original. You need six ends to replace them all, although the tie rod between the steering box and relay tends to wear a bit slower.

Aaron

The first thing to identify is if they are pendant (nut pointing up) or top mount with the nut pointing down. All 6 should be the same and 3 is LHT and 3 is RHT. There are decent kits on e-bay selling all of them together and you can even get genuine Lemforder if you want to splash. Allfour sells a full kit for $150 as well

Tie Rod End Kit Land Rover Series 1 2 2a

Cheers,

Lou

As in the first post. The tie rod ends on all Series 2a should be shouldered, but the tubes may have been changed for later ones. The important thing is to check whether the clamping on the tube is on a threaded or unthreaded bit of the tie rod end (and the ones on it are not necessarily the right ones!).

Each tube has one LH and one RH. Whether you have Whitworth or UNF or metric nut is immaterial unless you want to stay absolutely original, in which case, very roughly, Whitworth were fitted to Series 1, 2, and early 2a, UNF to most 2a and early 3, metric to very late 3 and many aftermarket ones.

John

John,

Shouldered... does mean a piece of un-threaded rod before the ball or a physical machined "step"?

The reason I ask is my early S2 still had what we believe to be its original tie rods fitted. They were Whitworth with the un-threaded section before the ball and I replaced them with the same ones.

Cheers,

Lou

Originally Posted by Loubrey

John,

Shouldered... does mean a piece of un-threaded rod before the ball or a physical machined "step"?

The reason I ask is my early S2 still had what we believe to be its original tie rods fitted. They were Whitworth with the un-threaded section before the ball and I replaced them with the same ones.

Cheers,

Lou

Yes, by "shouldered" I simply mean that there is an unthreaded section for the clamp to grip. And yes, that is what should have been on your early Series 2. But I cannot emphasise too strongly that in every case you need to make sure the tube and the tie rod end are the same type.

John

Dont they sell them with grease nipples any more?

Originally Posted by 123rover50

Dont they sell them with grease nipples any more?

You can get them with or without grease nipples. You can also choose between nyloc or caste nuts if you're going for authentic.

Pretty certain the Allfour kit as per the link is both grease nippled and nyloc.

I opted for the more traditional options for mine due to personal preference on my restoration. As they say aim small, miss small. If you try and get the little inconsequential details correct, the rest might come easier...

Cheers,

Lou

I removed the drag link and track rod last night.....took a bit of effort and in the end had to use some heat to remove the tie rod ends from the hub end and drop arm.

Then when I went to remove the tie rod ends from the rods and I found that the drag link had fully threaded tie rod ends and the track rod had shouldered tie rod ends.

What about the rod between the steering box and the relay? Any ideas if these are full threaded or shouldered?

Thanks heaps