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Thread: Series 2a tie rod ends - which ones?

  1. #11
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    That makes sense Lou. Looking inside the track rod, the threads start 1/2" down the tube. The drag link has threads starting at the edge.

    I'll remove the steering link this weekend (having the radiator and battery cradle out should help with gaining access.

    Cheers
    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

  2. #12
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loubrey View Post
    ........ Fully threaded will fit on shouldered tubes, but as per John's post, you need to fix it with fitting the correct ends.
    .....
    Cheers,

    Lou
    Let's make this clear - fully threade will fit in a shouldered tube, but this is unsafe. The clamping is only on the crests of the threads, and is likely to lose its grip after a bit of use. The unclamped tie rod end will then wear the thread until it lets go, probably on a sudden stress, such as hitting a bump at speed. Not the circumstances in which you want steering failure.

    John
    John

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  3. #13
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    right....these tie rod ends are really starting to annoy me.

    The first lot I ordered were all threaded so I exchanged a set of LH and RH ones for shouldered to suit the track rod ends.

    Now I went to fit the freshly painted track rod with new tie rod ends and the end that goes onto the arm off the the hub is too small!

    I ordered UNC...are the whitworth tie rod ends a larger diameter on the tapered shaft?

    Thanks heaps
    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

  4. #14
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    The tapers on all of them should be the same. I have never struck a different one.

    John
    John

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    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #15
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    Hi John

    Just between you and me...let's put it down to a rookie mistake!

    (They fit perfectly)
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

  6. #16
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    I won't even ask if you tried to put them in from the wrong side!

    John
    John

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    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #17
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    haha....not that time John. I was only using hand pressure so that's why there was movement.

    Now interestingly, I removed the link between the steering box and the relay last night (after a lot of effort and ended up having to use some heat on the steering box end)

    This shaft uses shouldered tie rod ends, but I see that the tie rod end at the relay had been replaced at some stage with a fully threaded tie rod end!
    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

  8. #18
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    Certainly not something I would like to see, but at least that link has less load on it than the others - the steering relay absorbs some of the shock loads from wheels hitting the obstacles.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  9. #19
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    Agree and I have used the correct "shouldered" tie rod ends as replacements.
    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 86mud View Post
    r

    The first lot I ordered were all threaded so I exchanged a set of LH and RH ones for shouldered to suit the track rod ends.
    It's worth noting that suppliers can be really persistent in trying to send the wrong track rod ends. When I was sourcing my new ones a few years ago, several suppliers couldn't seem to get their heads around the need to fit the shouldered ends in the earlier vehicles which required them. They just wanted to send off the fully-threaded ones. It's always good to have part numbers on hand (and with some supplliers, even that wasn't enough to convince them as they had later, fully-threaded ends as their stock replacement item).

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