Barney - a 1958 Series II

You have outed me too...I have been watching.

Re your orange peel, I am no expert, have painted a couple of my own trucks and utes in enamel, maybe your air pressure is a bit low. I have always had the pressure up a bit, not so high as to cause too much overspray, but enough paint volume and enough air to be able to sweep along the panels and get a good coverage. I go by feel, so can't give an exact recipe! I find it pays to play around a bit to get the right setting before doing the whole job. Someone who is more knowledgeable in paints is bound to come along.

My 88 has an 88 paint job that I sprayed, my little compressor really struggled with this and its far from perfect[bighmmm] but....................from 88" or further away it looks great[bigrolf][bigsmile1]

Don't despair once the silver trim goes back on that tub will pop[thumbsupbig]

Cheers Paul

I call them 10 cars - they look good from 10 feet!!!! [emoji1303][emoji3]

Thank you gentlemen.

I did seek advice, firstly from an old guy at work who used to be an auto painter for many years. I showed him the picture I posted, he reckons it’s way too thick, I needed more thinners (30-40%) and more air, and move the gun a lot faster. I then went back to the paint shop where I bought the paint from and spoke to Rowan, he has spent many years in the boat painting game. He said 20% is enough (which is what I used) and to wind the air back even further than I had it!
So conflicting advice from two ex professionals... which didn’t surprise me too much, spraying seems to be a “what works for you on the day” sort of thing. The one thing they did agree on was that the day I did the job was far too hot - I was told “if it’s uncomfortable for you, it’s too hot too paint”. I think that was sound advice and the crux of the issue, the thinners were drying out before it hit the surface. I will pick my painting days more carefully in future...
In the meantime I have sanded back the outside with #400 and #800, waiting for a milder day. I’ll leave the inner as is, it’s not as bad and will be mostly covered anyway.

Thanks for your replies, I hope I didn’t sound like I was wingeing earlier, it wasn’t my intention, it just seems things are a bit slow in the SLOw section lately...


Learning all the time,
Peter.

Q.

Anybody got a gun for applying solid rivets they’d like to lend me? For the sake of authenticity I’m going to try to avoid blind rivets where I can.

Peter

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by OneOff

Q.

Anybody got a gun for applying solid rivets they’d like to lend me? For the sake of authenticity I’m going to try to avoid blind rivets where I can.

Peter

---

Peter,

Hello from Sherwood - another watcher from the shadows.

If you can access the rivets from both sides then a hand punch backed by a solid surface (eg. hammer face) will do a pretty good job - the body rivets are aluminium and don’t require a massive force to distort them enough to get a tight grip. The capping rivets may be a bit harder. Basically a two person exercise but once you find a suitable partner, get the rhythm right and apply a bit of patience it seems to work ok - sort of like something else that will get you an infringement if you spell the word on the forum.....

There is a YouTube video about somewhere by North America Overland where they manually replaced just about every rivet on a 1965 SWB that way.

Cheers,

Neil

I brought all this home from National Galvanizers yesterday -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/01/729.jpg

Despite having to endure the forklift drivers opinion of Land Rovers old and new, I'm very pleased with the results, looks fantastik!

All up they charged me $179.50 which is their minimum charge for 100kgs.
I didn't weigh it but I doubt it would have gone 50kgs, and I did several items which weren't galvanized previously, which means I probably could have done two cars for the same money. Worth thinking about if you have a friend also restoring. Or just to put a set away for the future.

Also ready to collect from the sandblasters was this -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/01/730.jpg

He put a coat of zinc primer on it to keep the rust demons away until I get around to it. More holes than the Titanic, I'm going to be scratching my head working out which ones I need and which ones to fill...

The only signs of rust is on the drivers side footwell, decades of spilled brake fluid has done the usual job. Other than that, it's in great nick.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/01/731.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/01/732.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/01/733.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/01/734.jpg

Full steam ahead!

Peter.

Galvanised parts look great.

Great work on your project.

Now I'm not a spray painter but have dabbled a little with my toys. I actually googled spray gun set ups and took notice of the videos and there are some good ones out there. I also bought a pressure gauge which attaches to the gun so you can adjust the pressure there and know what your getting, as you can have 50psi at the compressor but that's not necessarily what you have at the gun.

Just for interest I mix around 10% to 15% thinners and operate with 35psi at the gun and adjust the paint screw to 2 or 2 1/2 turns. Videos explain it better than I but it has worked so far. And, I only paint with air dry enamels.

Perry

Excellent. That's good information, thanks Perry.