I know it's been mentioned somewhere - where can I find a workshop manual for this beastie??
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I know it's been mentioned somewhere - where can I find a workshop manual for this beastie??
Within this site I believe that you can buy a Wksp manual from Dave (Incisor)
or you could surf the net and buy the rear half of the factory shop manual
Land Rover Series II IIA Factory Workshop Manual Part 2 | eBay
cheers Dennis
or this one
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Rove...4AAOSwHoFXsuDE
A bit of this, bit of that going on lately...
as part of getting the clutch and brakes operational, I tidied up the pedal boxes and pedals; just waiting on the last few parts to get it back together. Should get them this week.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/09/939.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/09/940.jpg
Hmmm... not much needed here...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/09/941.jpg
...or here.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/09/942.jpg
A few homemade bits; this is about the limit of my engineering skills.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/09/943.jpg
I'm thinking of getting the engine professionally re-built, as much as I'd like to say "I fixed it", I think it's beyond my skills. I think the old thing is worth saving; engine number and chassis number match so it is the original.
Can anyone recommend a perfectionist who could take this on in the SEQ area?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/09/944.jpg
Cheers,
OneOff
I've been using Engine Engineering at Rocklea to do my motors . Although they didn't do my 1695cc 80" they did my 1949 P3 Rover . MGB & Mini. They have always done a good job @ a reasonable price. I supplied the parts & did the assembly my self.
Being a rare Series 2 still with the 2.0l engine, I would say it is worth saving the engine if possible.
John
I had seriously considered sending it to Turners Engineering in the UK who specialize in these engines, but at 3000 pounds ($5432.82) plus shipping both ways, it blows a mighty hole in the budget.
I want to do the right thing by it, as John says, it's a little bit rare, but my pockets are just not deep enough for that... and it's really only interesting and of value to other Roverphiles. I'm not exactly sitting on any sort of goldmine here and I need to be sensible about it.
I'm sure there are some very good local rebuilders who would do a good warrantied job at a reasonable cost. Having said that, I know "you get what you pay for" and I don't mind paying for quality.
Pete.
Internally they are a fairly robust and well designed engine.
Strip it down yourself following the workshop manual then take the crankshaft, engine block and head to a reputable engine reconditioning shop to have it measured up and assessed to see if it is salvageable, which it should be unless it's been run out of oil or badly dusted. Parts and gaskets etc. for a rebuild are available, and when you are ready to assemble it follow the manual to a "T" or find a local AULROian who can assist you. The only tricky bit that can throw you a challenge is the rear bearing block and it's associated seals (T seals and split rear main seal), but they can be done.
Good luck.
Cheers, Mick.
:(
Well, not so good news...
I've replaced all the external clutch parts - master cylinder; slave cylinder; the pushrod and clevis components. I now have about an inch of movement at the pushrod when I depress the pedal... but still no clutch.
I can only assume now that the clutch itself inside the housing is knackered and will need replacing.
This puts paid to my plans of using it as a putter on the farm while I get the old motor done up; there's no way I'm pulling the Holden out to replace the clutch just for occasional use, so Barney will sit where it is until the motor is completed and I can start the strip down of the body and chassis... :(
A question : the clutch in the vehicle now - would it be a Holden clutch or a Land Rover clutch?
hi start the engine run it for a hour put in to gear then llet the clutch out just maybe good luck jimQuote:
Originally Posted by OneOff
As Russellrovers says, the clutch plate is probably stuck to the flywheel and pressure plate with rust (or possibly the pilot bush is stuck).
But before getting too worried about the clutch itself, check that the clutch mechanism is actually working. If the slave cylinder is operating the bell crank, make sure that the clutch release shaft is actually turning. The issue here is that this shaft is linked to the shaft of the bell crank by two hardened steel pins and a short hardened steel tube. If one of these pins is broken, no clutch.
The pins must be hardened, or they will only have a short life - if replaced with an ordinary bolt, as is often the case, they will distort and lose movement, eventually breaking.
If you remove the bracket that holds the gear lever, you will find an opening into the bell housing, through which you should be able to see whether the pressure plate is actually releasing.
John