Thread: Barney - a 1958 Series II

Oh wow... how good is this forum.

Thank you gents, I will try that...

A question for the future -

I believe this car would have been originally positive earth using a generator (dynamo?), at the moment with the Holden it is negative earth.

• Obviously from a authenticity perspective it should be returned to positive earth, but is this the best way to go?
• For reliability or other reasons should I stay with an alternator/neg earth?
• What needs to be changed to return it to original?
• Can I use standard off the shelf electrical components (bulbs, switches etc.) or do I need special gear?
• Anything else I need to consider?

Sorry if these are dumb electrical questions but I'm known to be a dumb electrical guy.

Peter.

Originally Posted by OneOff

• Obviously from a authenticity perspective it should be returned to positive earth, but is this the best way to go?
• For reliability or other reasons should I stay with an alternator/neg earth?
• What needs to be changed to return it to original?
• Can I use standard off the shelf electrical components (bulbs, switches etc.) or do I need special gear?
• Anything else I need to consider?

Peter.

There is nothing wrong with +ve earth, except when you wish to use a modern auxilliary, such as a radio, which are usually -ve earth.

Alternators charge the battery even when idling, so it depends on the driving conditions as to whether a dynamo can cope, e.g. slow traffic with headlights and wipers on, will test a dynamo.

To return to original will require a: dynamo; mounting brackets; fasteners; probably a new vee-belt and a bit of fiddling around to get it to fit. Google changing to +ve earth, there are a lot of good write-ups on the net. Recently I changed the polarity on my Alpine whilst keeping the dynamo; the ammeter wires have to be reversed and the polarity of the dynamo changed by exciting the field coils; it is a straight-forward exercise.

If you change to an alternator, the regulator needs to be removed and the wiring changed to suit the alternator. All other components can be left alone, provided that they are negative earth - they usually are. If your car has a radio check that it isn't positive earth; if you have an ammeter, change the wire connections so that it shows a positive charge when the engine is running,

Cheers Charlie

Wow that clutch pedal has seen some use over it's life, judging by how smooth the foot plate on it is.
As for the clutch assembly in your vehicle, most likely a Holden pressure plate but may be a modified to accept the Land Rover thrust mechanism, clutch plate may be either Land Rover or a manufactured "special" to suit the conversion, spigot bush will be a special or a Holden bush machined out to take the larger diameter Land Rover spigot shaft.
The thrust bearing assembly should be standard Land Rover.
You won't really know until you strip it down.
Cheers, Mick.

Originally Posted by TimNZ

I had the same problem with my series 3 last week, solution was to get the engine warm, then restart it in gear. It let go when I changed into 2nd.

Cheers,

Tim

I'm not sure I understand the freeing the clutch procedure - is it that you warm the engine up then put it in first and let the clutch out quick - or do you turn the engine off , put it in first and then crank the engine and it will kind of jerk forward? The two sound the same to me.
Cheers,
D

Yep, start in gear, then try to change gear when moving. Usually works.

Cheers Rod

Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

What Rod said ^^. Get the engine hot, turn it off, put the car in first, restart the engine, then drive "normally" using the clutch when you change gear. Hopefully the clutch will free itself from the flywheel, (if this is the problem). Just give yourself some space, and I don't see any need to be heavy handed with the throttle.

If you want to check the hydraulics are working loosen the slave cylinder mounting bolts off by about 10mm and get someone to press the clutch pedal down, the slave should push itself away from the bell-housing. Not completely fool proof as the slave cylinder isn't under any real load, but it will give you some idea as to what is going on.

Cheers,

Tim

You don't actually have to change gears - just put your foot on the clutch and take the other foot off the accelerator is what does it - the engine braking will put a big load on the clutch.

John