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still can't seem to load pictures from smugmug, although they show up in preview
YarnMaster
As long as the holes are still round and the PCD can be found, I can see no reason why Helicoils would not be a safe option. Probably the best way to enlarge the holes for the Helicoils, would be to use a rotary table and a milling machine, as a drill bit may wander if the holes are not round.Originally Posted by OneOff
Remember that the end of the wheel stud is peened over once installed, which should be done with the new ones; however; the peening can let go eventually, so some high-strength Loctite on the Helicoil and stud is a good precaution.
As an aside; I think one reason the peening can let go, is because of rust on the wheel nuts and studs. I am in the group that believes in using grease, oil, or anti-seize, on wheel studs and tightening them with a torque wrench,
Cheers Charlie
Master
test post...
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still can't seem to load pictures from smugmug, although they show up in preview
Master
The helicoil problem has been solved - I've bought a spare 88" and a another (broken) rolling chassis for parts, I'll pick that up this arvo... I'll have eight extra hubs to chose from, there should be a couple of good ones in all that!
Master
I'd like the advice/opinion of the brains trust please.
I fitted the front springs on the weekend, and then the front axle.
But it didn't look quite right... the axle was not square to the chassis, and the shackles were not at the same angle. The passenger side was fairly vertical but the drivers side was pulled quite forward. I know the engine isn't in yet and the geometry will change once that happens, but I just want to make sure I get it right at this stage, it's easier to fix now then when the truck is back together.
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I took it all apart again, did a few measurements and found the drivers side (241283) is shorter eye to eye and deeper than the passenger side (242863), however measured around the arc they are the same length.
Fair enough, I know they are sided, but shouldn't the one with the greater bend be on the passenger side, to compensate for the greater weight of the motor/gearbox?
I did contact Paddocks because at first I thought I had been sent a faulty spring. They humored me by going out and measuring several sets in stock; "they're all like that" they said. (Is this true?)
Am I wrong? should the shorter spring with the deeper set be on the drivers side or the passenger (engine) side?
I'm sure there are plenty of people out there who have been down this path and could advise me.
Thanks,
Peter.
RoverLord
No, the driver's side has more weight than the passenger. The engine and gearbox might be offset to the left, but not by very much, but the transfer case, unsprung part of prop shafts, battery, fuel tank, steering gear and driver are offset a lot further to the right. The springs with the more camber go on the right.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Master
Ok, thank you John, I will go with that. I just wanted to make sure I got it right...
Master
On the weekend I picked up a couple of parts donors, an S-2a and an S-3 chassis/firewall. The back of the S-2a is full of various bits and pieces, mostly rusty rubbish; I'll go through that and pull out anything worthwhile. Plus a non-runner 2 1/4 motor and gearbox. No use to me but it all came as a job lot.
So at some point in the future I will have an Isuzu diesel with gearbox/transfer case, a 2 1/4 petrol with gearbox/transfer case, and a 186 Holden engine all for sale.
Give me a PM if you need anything...
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Looks like a pile of rubbish overall but it will save me a heap in parts...
Peter.
Wizard
Wow, that's an interesting bumper on the last one!
Cheers,
Master
Yeah, it's unique all right... the chassis is nearly broken in two just behind where that bumper is welded on. I reckon they used the poor thing as a bulldozer.
A serious case of Land Rover abuse I think...
Last edited by OneOff; 27th February 2017 at 10:42 AM. Reason: speeling
Master
So I went around to the engine rebuilders today, everything is coming along fine. It's been painted - what an awful colour that Duck Egg Blue/Light Admiralty Gray is... still, that's the way it was so that's the way it is again.
Will handed me a half dozen bolts off the flywheel to be replaced. Now, these bolts go in from the front of the flywheel (from the side against the engine) with a washer and nut to the rear of the clutch housing. Looking in my parts catalogue, for a 2ltr petrol they should be inserted from the rear and no nut so the flywheel should be threaded.
I think my flywheel may have come from a diesel, in the parts catalogue they have that "insert from the front" set up. If that's so it doesn't really surprise me... a lot can happen in 60 years of life, especially when a good deal of that time was spent as a farm truck with several other Land Rovers in various states of disrepair. The Land Rover graveyard he had would even impress Harry...
So here's my questions...
1. Is that even possible? Can a diesel flywheel fit on a petrol engine?
2. Does it matter? Can I just go with what I've got rather than having to buy another flywheel?
3. Will there be implications when it comes time to fit up the clutch? Is it the same clutch plate - diesel or petrol?
As always, looking forward to advice and guidance from my pit crew,
Peter.
p.s. Tomorrow I have another question regarding axle drive flanges, this requires a picture and it's too late for that now...
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