Thread: Swivel hub seal replacement

There's a couple of ways to do it - pull it all apart - which gives you the opportunity to check out everything else while you're at it - if the swivel seals are leaking there's a good chance other stuff will need attention too.

The other way I've seen it done is to split the seal with a 1mm grinding disk and slip that around and fit the split to the top with a dab of sealant/oil proof silicone, etc. I would think the entire metal ring would need sealing doing this as it would end up a tiny bit smaller and not press into the housing as well.

I know which way I'd do it but if you know everything else is ok, maybe the bodge job would be ok.

Not sure if there's any other way - I'm sure someone will chime in if there is.

Splitting a standard seal with a fine hacksaw it is possible but not easy to get it on without buckling the metal frame (The old one has to be cut as well to get it off). The spring has to be unhooked and then rehooked and fiddled into place as well.

Put the join at the top, but while this may stop the leak of oil, it may not stop water getting in. Also note that it is often possible to stop leaks by adjusting the swivel preload, as a loose swivel will allow the swivel housing to move slightly away from the ball.

You used to be able to buy swivel seals with an extra flexible frame already split - in my experience, not terribly effective as seals!

My conclusion, having done it both ways is - do it properly.

It is possible to remove the entire hub assembly as a unit, just undo the steering links, disconnect and plug the brake hose, and undo the bolts holding the ball to the axle housing - but be aware that it is very heavy.

After disconnecting the steering link(s) I remove the brake drum, hub and bearings, then remove the stub axle, withdraw the half axle, tie the brake assembly up out of the way without damaging the hose (saves brake bleeding), and then unbolt the ball, and take the ball plus swivel to the bench. Nothing too heavy that way.

John

I agree in doing it properly. Then you can check your swivel bearings and wheel bearings, replace the axle seal etc.
However if you don't want to do that, you could probably just undo the bolts holding the knuckle to the diff tube and you may be able to slide the seals over that way, rather than cutting them. Maybe.

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Originally Posted by Defender boy

....
However if you don't want to do that, you could probably just undo the bolts holding the knuckle to the diff tube and you may be able to slide the seals over that way, rather than cutting them. Maybe.

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To do that you need to remove the half axle - by the time you do that you have it pretty much apart anyway.

John

I thought the axle would slide out with the hub assembly. I'm not going to swear on it because I've always done them by the dismantle method. See how you go I'd be interested to hear. ☺

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Yes if you undo the 6 bolts and nuts where the balls attatch to the diff housing and the brake pipe then the whole lot comes out, axle and all. Then you undo the 6 bolts that hold the swivel seal in the housing and you can replace the seal. Heavier that way but no need to strip all that other stuff off. Just be careful not to damage the axle seal between the diff housing and swivel ball.

Cheers Rod.

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Like Rod has stated, and you can also change a front diff centre using the same method, but don't have to go as far as disconnecting the brake lines.


Daihatsu four wheel drives use a split seal on their swivel hubs, they work well and are simple to fit. It would be worth comparing the measurements on both the Daihatsu and Land Rover seals, as they look very similar in size.


Cheers, Mick.

I'm not a fan of splitting the seal (you used to be able to buy them already split) but here is the process

Replacing Land Rover front swivel ball seals

One of mine came with a split seal with no steel backing, just rubber. John mentioned these in an earlier post. They were very 'floppy' and I don't know how they managed to seal......

Best to pull everything down to check the Railco bush, taper roller etc. etc.

Colin