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Saved my choke knob[bigsmile1]
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Tried araldite but not to good but super glue worked well on the Bakelite, then wrapped in fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin, then thickened epoxy which I faired and painted
Should be plenty strong enough[bigsmile1]
Cheers Paul
My surplus steering box bits have found a vehicle
Cheers Paul
Bit of an update, manifold and extractors off with no broken studs[bigsmile1]
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This is the colour of the water drained from the block, to flush I was thinking of blocking bottom radiator hose and squirting water down top hose and out of drain tap (assumption is drain tap is in the lowest portion of the cooling galleries)
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Two aluminium fuel tanks in excellent condition with large drain plugs underneath
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Manifold didn't come up as well as steering box maybe heat has something to do with it....hydrochloric acid perhaps?
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Work on fire wall rust has stopped because my little map gas size oxy cylinder ran out after about twenty minutes of welding. But no distortion in what I managed to do so I'm confident, have got on to a real oxy set I can borrow just need to sort out gas.
Cheers Paul
After removing the starter motor for painting I found the spring had sheared thankfully no bits had fallen in,any leads on where I can source a new one would be appreciated[wink11][wink11]
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Looking in bell housing I saw this looks new[bigsmile1]
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Front drive shaft looks as if its been repaired at sometime so I guess I've got to replace it[bigsad]
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On the upside under uni's are new split pins hopefully good things have been done prior to my ownership
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I couldn't get the handbrake drum off this afternoon although I got the 6 retaining nuts off any tips or tricks, hand brake works but after starter motor spring I want to look inside while access is easy
Cheers Paul
Handbrake - make sure adjuster and actuator are completely off, then belt the drum towards the transfer case with a soft face hammer alternately on opposite sides, It will be held by the fit of the drum centre on the output flange, so penetrating oil on this join may help. If this does not work, try heating up the drum with a hot air gun.
Thanks John will try again with everything off..........if I'm still struggling is it viable to undo nut on output flange and remove drum and flange togetherQuote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
Cheers Paul
An 'old school' auto elec should be able to supply the starter spring.
Land Rover 244710, Lucas number 270889
LUCAS M418G STARTER MAIN LARGE SPRING IN FRONT OF PINION & PINION RETURN SPRING
You'd probably find one at a swap meet.
Colin
I have sourced a spring for my starter motor and ordered a new front prop shaft
Undid the nut and split pin on output flange and removed drum and output flange........didn't expect the oil though good thing is its clean and smells fine, will undo backing plate and clean up oil and renew output oil seal while I'm at it.
Attachment 124310 Attachment 124311this pesky thing gave me some grief for a while until I spotted the thread.
Cheers Paul
Hi Paul, with the output seal, check that u get a double lip seal and that its a snug fit on the output flange. Also dont forget to renew the felt seal under the nut. Lots of ppl forget the felt seal and it leaks again. It doesnt hurt to seal up the splines in the output flange with a little silastic as well. Saves the handbrake shoes. I got a seal and fitted it and 3 days later i had the same problem. Turns out the seal i was sold was only a single lip seal and wasnt a tight fit at all. The seal was part of a kit. Both seals were supposed to be the same but were different, one being a double lip seal and the other a single lip seal. Both had the same part number and in the same colour blue box.
Cheers Rod
It may be - provided it is not hanging up on the shoes, which it possibly is because the shoes are stuck in place or covered in crud. Worth a try though. Note that if you have not drained the T/C, you will as soon as you remove this, so be prepared! It is quite likely that the actuator is stuck as well, and disconnecting the actuating rod and giving it a belt on the end may help. May not too, if the rollers are rusted in place.Quote:
Originally Posted by bemm52
Hitting the drum on opposite sides as I suggested, once free from the centre hole, this action will also tend to free it from the shoes, where a straight pull, such as you have if you undo the centre nut, will, if the shoes are stuck against the drum, tilt the shoes and make them grip more tightly. The hammer blows will shake them loose. (Hopefully)
