Bought a series2... I think.

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

Yes, later (post '67) did not have the ammeter. When I got my current Series 2a 35 years ago and fitted an alternator, I also fitted matching voltmeter and oil pressure gauge on a small panel just to the right of the main dash panel.

John

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My next question was going to be about an oil pressure gauge.
The car has come fitted with one(I think its stuffed), and it is installed to where the oil pressure switch should be. The car did come with another oil filter assembly which has the an oil pressure switch on it and a T piece to allow a oil pressure connection to be attached. I am unsure what is original in regards to the two oil filter assemblies. But the one in the car at the moment seems to have a shorter oil filter installed.

Is a oil pressure gauge a smart thing to have? I was going to go back to just having the switch.

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Originally Posted by Dark61

I spent a small amount on getting the correct coloured wires from the UK and chopped out the more recent stuff. If i wasnt sure about something , i just ended it in a cable connector so it wasnt just flapping about in the engine bay potentially live and could go back to it at a later date. Once i had got rid of all the stuff over the years that had been added , radio, spots etc and with ref to the wiring diagram - it all made a lot more sense. A multimeter and or a test lamp on the end of long wires so you can see it from the cab also helped.
Cheers,
D

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Ill be trying to stick to correct colours as much as I can, depends on how much of a pain it is to source them. I have worked out what all the red wires are doing under the bonnet now. Ill be cutting most of them out this afternoon and rewire it all at a later date.

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Originally Posted by chazza

Autosparks in the UK have the proper coloured wires, for a very reasonable price!

If your headlamps are dull, don't forget to check the condition of the earths. It is worth using heavier gauge cable here and and two relays kept close to the headlights, which can be hidden inside the front panel. The difference in brightness is well worth the trivial expense and small amount of time to do the conversion.

Cheers Charlie

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I was going to get an AutoSparks one at first, but after going through what I am doing now I think I would rather just wiring it myself.
The head lamps are currently running through a New-Era relay with decent wiring. Ill be pulling them out and putting two modern relays right between the lights and batteries. And ill probably convert it to be able to take modern lights.

IIRC, the correct colour wiring is available from the AULRO shop as Dave got it in for his :)

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Originally Posted by singlecell

My next question was going to be about an oil pressure gauge.
The car has come fitted with one(I think its stuffed), and it is installed to where the oil pressure switch should be. The car did come with another oil filter assembly which has the an oil pressure switch on it and a T piece to allow a oil pressure connection to be attached. I am unsure what is original in regards to the two oil filter assemblies. But the one in the car at the moment seems to have a shorter oil filter installed.

Original was light only, but there was a dealer option of a gauge as well. The shorter filter was a change during S2 production. I am pretty certain the only difference is the housing and the centre bolt and, of course, the element.

Is a oil pressure gauge a smart thing to have? I was going to go back to just having the switch.

Oil gauge is really only an advantage if you look at it. However, I rate mine as having possibly saved the engine on a recent trip when I developed an oil leak - and noticed the pressure was dropping as the oil got very hot due to less volume.

Ill be trying to stick to correct colours as much as I can, depends on how much of a pain it is to source them. I have worked out what all the red wires are doing under the bonnet now. Ill be cutting most of them out this afternoon and rewire it all at a later date.


I was going to get an AutoSparks one at first, but after going through what I am doing now I think I would rather just wiring it myself.
The head lamps are currently running through a New-Era relay with decent wiring. Ill be pulling them out and putting two modern relays right between the lights and batteries. And ill probably convert it to be able to take modern lights.

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I would prefer the New Era relay to 'modern' relays - mine is mounted on the panel behind the RH headlight. As you say, keeps the wires short!

John

I didnt mean get a whole loom - just where repairs have been made using anything that was at hand - I chopped that out and put the correct colour in - it made it easier to understand what i was looking at with reference to the wiring diagram once i had got the colours in my head.
Cheers,
D

It lives!!!
https://youtu.be/d3P5fKZURww

So I had the plan today to remove the rear body and the front wings today. I ended removing pretty much everything but them due to not having received all the proper spanners/sockets.

Never will I take the metric system or stainless steel nuts and bolts for granted again.

But it did make me ask the question, what nuts and bolts do people put back in? Cleaned up original? Does someone sell new ones of the same style do just replace them all with new metric ones?

Half the of the nuts/bolts are missing so I am going to have to get something...

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Originally Posted by singlecell

But it did make me ask the question, what nuts and bolts do people put back in? Cleaned up original? Does someone sell new ones of the same style do just replace them all with new metric ones?

Half the of the nuts/bolts are missing so I am going to have to get something...

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Replace them with what was there originally; most of the body is UNF; engine, axles and gearbox generally BSF; and perhaps a smattering of Metric depending on what has been replaced by someone before you. Checkout Classic Fasteners in SA for BSF and UNF at sensible prices.

I usually de-rust good old ones and re-use them, but new ones can be bought easily with a zinc-plated finish.

Regarding your re-wiring and Autosparks; I didn't make myself clear, you can buy the proper wire by the metre, which will enable you and those that follow you, to make sense of the electrical circuits,

Cheers Charlie

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Originally Posted by singlecell

Attachment 119210
Also noticed this when poking around. This is the top of the rear shock. Is this normal or has it been modified to handle a different shock?

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It's been modified to accept a different shockie!


Cheers, Mick.

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Originally Posted by chazza

Replace them with what was there originally; most of the body is UNF; engine, axles and gearbox generally BSF; and perhaps a smattering of Metric depending on what has been replaced by someone before you. Checkout Classic Fasteners in SA for BSF and UNF at sensible prices.

I usually de-rust good old ones and re-use them, but new ones can be bought easily with a zinc-plated finish.

Regarding your re-wiring and Autosparks; I didn't make myself clear, you can buy the proper wire by the metre, which will enable you and those that follow you, to make sense of the electrical circuits,

Cheers Charlie

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I suspect Ill just be putting new s/s ones in everywhere I can. Half are missing and a lot dont match each other.

OH now I get it. I thought you meant you could get premade parts of the harness. I think the car has about 10 inches of the original wiring left in it. Its already been completely rewired. Just in a dodgy farm truck sort of way. The three lights had even been wired to represent different things than what they were intended for.

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Originally Posted by mick88

It's been modified to accept a different shockie!


Cheers, Mick.

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They had fitted shocks that could be pumped up and down. Nothing an angle grinder wont fix. :D

Stainless steel in contact with aluminium alloy is asking for trouble. It should be insulated from the alloy. A visit to a marine chandler will supply nylon washers and tubes for the purpose. Also note that there are a few bolts that are heavily enough loaded that stainless may not be strong enough.

John