Bought a series2... I think.

One head light works on one beam. The other worked for about 10 seconds before it went up in smoke. No brake lights. No indicators. Could be bulbs. Couple of dash bulbs glow. Haven't had a huge look yet. Biggest issue with the wiring isn't that things arnt working. But its all done in red wire. And it doesn't run clean from one place to another. Most ends up being just twisted and wrapped in tape into a different coloured wire. Or is just runs somewhere then hangs connected to nothing. Even if it was all working there is no way I could leave it as is.

The only fused circuit on positive earth Series 2/2a Landrovers is the ancillaries that go through the ignition switch. Everything else is unfused. Hardly brilliant design, but much the same for all Series 1/2/2a - S3 is a little better.

John

So looks like there is no ignition coil. I think I can see in thus mess where it would go. Is there a genetic one that suits that local shops would stock?

Nothing special about the ignition coil - 12v (not 8v designed for ballast), negative earth. last one I got was off the shelf at Repco.

John

Well, I am slowly working on this wiring. The only part I can't work out is the blinkers. It's all pretty simple, I am considering just rewiring the car myself as a posed to spending 400 bucks on a harness.

They have done some stuff which is odd to me, like running the alternator to the ammeter, shorting the ammeter out and having the other side run to the battery side of the starter relay. I thought running a much shorter wire directly between the alt and the battery would be the go then run a wire from there into the dash to give the area power...

Curious though, the main lights on the car, is it a low/high or more of a parking/night light? The duller of the beams didn't seem too bright is all. Although it was daytime I was working it all out. It wasn't even wired so the brighter of the beams could ever come on.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

Nothing special about the ignition coil - 12v (not 8v designed for ballast), negative earth. last one I got was off the shelf at Repco.

John

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Awesome, Ill pick one up tomorrow.

The original system used a generator, but this had a current output of probably half the output of the alternator, so the ammeter does not have sufficient current range to use with the alternator. This will be why the ammeter is shorted.

You are right, you should run a main lead direct from the alternator across the front of the engine to the battery. I would be inclined to scrap using the ammeter, unless you are a stickler for originality, and perhaps replace it with the temperature gauge fitted post-1967. But note that this needs a voltage stabiliser. And if tempted to replace the entire cluster with the later one, be aware that the early and later fuel gauge are not compatible, and you would need to replace the tank unit as well.

If you do not already have it, can I suggest you get the 'Rave CD' with the manuals from the AULRO Shop, and examine the wiring diagrams.

John

I did have look at a few wiring diagrams, the car is definitely not wired the same way.

I won't be using an ammeter. I didn't realise the sections of the gauge could be changed out, that's pretty cool. A volt meter seems to be the go. That can be a much later project.

Well I have made a nice list of electrics to buy, tomorrow I try start it and see how that goes.

Also I have named the car "Barbara"

Yes, later (post '67) did not have the ammeter. When I got my current Series 2a 35 years ago and fitted an alternator, I also fitted matching voltmeter and oil pressure gauge on a small panel just to the right of the main dash panel.

John

I spent a small amount on getting the correct coloured wires from the UK and chopped out the more recent stuff. If i wasnt sure about something , i just ended it in a cable connector so it wasnt just flapping about in the engine bay potentially live and could go back to it at a later date. Once i had got rid of all the stuff over the years that had been added , radio, spots etc and with ref to the wiring diagram - it all made a lot more sense. A multimeter and or a test lamp on the end of long wires so you can see it from the cab also helped.
Cheers,
D

Autosparks in the UK have the proper coloured wires, for a very reasonable price!

If your headlamps are dull, don't forget to check the condition of the earths. It is worth using heavier gauge cable here and and two relays kept close to the headlights, which can be hidden inside the front panel. The difference in brightness is well worth the trivial expense and small amount of time to do the conversion.

Cheers Charlie