Thread: Series 2

New home today.
more pics to follow.
One door and two good door Tops.
Plus Land rover manual, series 3. ( may have been Gilberts manual ) as they appear to have been stable mates.
Noticed 15 inch rms. standard or should be 16's ????

whitehillbilly

All Series Landrovers came with 16" in this country except for Series 3 Game, which had 15". Although 15" was optional, and fitted to North American spec at least most of the time, I have never heard of any here specifying this option.

Thanks John.
Try and find some numbers.
Swivel balls the same on 11A and S3. My S3 has the larger studs. Larger stub axle or just outer faceFlange and larger studs holes.
Dif gear ratio front and rear same ???? As my S3
Thanks

Whitehillbilly

Hubs are the same 2a to 3, balls are the same, swivel housings differed in detail when 2a went from the arm on the bottom to the arm on the top, but are interchangeable and can be converted if you know what you are doing. Hubs are interchangeable up to about 1980 when the bearings changed, but as you note, Series 3 had 16mm studs and Series 2a had 9/16"BSF studs, same as Series 2 and 1. But the last of Series 2a had the Series 3 studs. And as with any other parts check what you have, since the bits can be swapped as assemblies even if not individual parts.

Diff ratios are the same front and back and all Series were 4.7 except for Series 3 Stage 1 (3.54) and a small number of very early Series 1. But they may have been changed since new, and most of the Rover diffs are a simple swap.

Hope this helps,

John

I have a workshop manual published December 1963 that came with 1961 LWB ute acquired last year from estate of a relative who owned it since mid 60's. It has three pages of details for 1959, 1959 1960 and 1961 Series 2. Then Series 2A - presumably up to late '63.
There are six columns. Model, Vehicle and Chassis Commencing numbers, Engine Commencing Numbers, Gearbox Commencing Numbers, Front Axle Commencing Numbers and Rear Axle Commencing Numbers. Within Model is 88, 109 or Station Wagon, Petrol or Diesel, Right or left hand drive and Home, Export or CKD. The latter is Complete Knocked Down. Mine was assembled by Pressed Metal Corporation, Sydney Serial number 109 4868. A much higher number than yours, which is a S2A of some sort. Like other serial numbers, not necessarily in complete logical sequence. 109's probably commenced at a high number and maybe more of them were assembled.

The Land Rover Series 2 numbers all start with 1 - and have no suffix letter. Then chassis numbers of 2A's - presumably commencing late 1961 and to late 1963 range from 2410,,,,,,to 3040.....and all have a lower case a suffix.

According to this manual , 2430 then suffix a was starting number for Petrol 88 CKD RHD. And starting number for Petrol 109 CKD RHD was 2530. The latter does not make sense with the PMC plate for a shorty installed above it. Unless the numbers stopped with the end of the production run involved and then started gain for a later batch. Meanwhile, worth mentioning that I read somewhere on aulro that the Land Rover records from Pressed Metal Corporation have been lost or destroyed.

Presumably, you will find the engine, gearbox and both axle housing numbers. In order of decreasing probability of not being original. Will be interesting to see what these suggest the original model each component was in.

Thanks for the replies.
Mox, will try and get some more numbers today.
May have found marks on the wheels, will rub back and see what I find.
John, What numbers were on the Game 15 inch wheels ????
Took out the plugs and tried to turn the motor, but seized.
squirted some oil in each cylinder, two days ago.
will see if I get some movement today.
Any other suggestions please, before I pull the head off.
Thanks.

whitehillbilly

Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

Took out the plugs and tried to turn the motor, but seized.
squirted some oil in each cylinder, two days ago.
will see if I get some movement today.
Any other suggestions please, before I pull the head off.
Thanks.

whitehillbilly

Pour a healthy amount of diesolene into each cylinder and leave it to soak in for at least a day.

Use the starting-handle when you try to turn it and really put some effort into it. It took two or three days to unseize my S1 engine using this method,

Cheers Charlie

Thanks Chazza.
Off to get a couple of ltrs of diesoline.
Keep you posted.

whitehillbilly