Thread: 'Berty' - 1960 Series 2

G'day Gents and Ladies,

Thanks again for the advice. Will go with the drilling option and come back with photos and confirmation post the weekend.

Fingers crossed I can get the rear suspension sorted this weekend, because that is all that is standing between me and the first proper test drive. (I held off on test driving it before replacing the suspension as the leaf springs had collapsed to the point at which they were damaging the chassis).

Definitely looking forward to it.

Sam

G'day Ladies and Gents,

I am writing to provide an update post the weekend's achievements and seek your assistance on determining whether I have accurately installed my rear suspension, in particular the rear shackles.

So, for any prospective or future adherent looking to remove the rear chassis bushes, strap in, because it is not an enjoyable task. Perhaps because I didn't complete it in the most effective manner, or perhaps simply because the outer metal rings of my rear chassis bushes were effectively bonded to the chassis. The photos attached will show the pain I went through over the course of two days to remove the seized shackles, including being forced to cut the original bolts off with an angle grinder as a result of the bonding that had occurred through rusting. Cutting the outer metal ring of the chassis with a hacksaw blade was effective, if painful, but the removal of them was not easy as mine had bonded to the chassis with rust. Various screwdrivers and a couple of cold chisels assisted, although I was conscious of avoiding any damage to the chassis which was not easy. A very fine file was required to tidy up the chassis and remove some remaining rust residue.

The second set of photos attached show the now installed parabolic springs and shocks. The shock (forgive the pun) that I received was how much lower the diffs now sit post this instillation compared to the original springs. What I am trying to work out is whether this is appropriate or whether I may have bolted the rear shackles on at the wrong angle. The reason for my surprise is that I was informed by the mechanic for Four Wheel Drives (Land Rover) in Melbourne that the parabolics should only increase the ride height by 25mm. It certainly seems a bigger increase than that based upon how low the diffs are now sitting. I was of the opinion that I may have attached the rear shackles incorrectly in that instead of being vertical they should be horizontal to the rear? This would certainly decrease the disparity in ride height, but I feel they would just drop back to vertical when I test drive the car on Saturday?

Hoping for a confirmation either way based upon the expertise and knowledge available in the forum.

Thanks for your time,

Sam

And the shackles post removal
IMG_6748.jpg

Did u notice that the bolts in the rear shackle plates are threaded into the inner shackle plate. Most dont know that after removing the inner nut u then have to screw the shackle bolt out as well. I found this out the hard way but was lucky i noticed. Parabolic springs will settle after a while but should sit higher. Did u use original type bushes or poly bushes? If u used original bushes u should leave the shackle bolts loose until the vehicle is back on its wheels so the suspension settles down to road height then tighten the bolts and then on the rear shackle plates, the nuts with the vehicle on the ground so the bushes arent twisted or "loaded up". This doesnt need doing if u used poly bushes. Lube the poly bushes up lots. Or put lots of antisieze grease on the shackle bolts if u used original type bushes.

I hope it turns out good for you.

Cheers Rod

G'day Ladies and Gents,

Rod: Thankfully I did notice that the rear shackle plate was threaded. Unfortunately it was the front shackle plate that had bonded to the bolt along with the inner sleeve from the rear chassis bush. I used poly bushes and the issue (of height) has now resolved itself. The rears have started to settle (once I got the wheels back on and the car back on the ground) and we have almost levelled out now from front to back. Just a matter of the rear shackles swinging a little rearwards (towards the horizontal).

Great news is that on Saturday I got the last remaining bushes for the rear shocks, bolted the wheels on and took 'Berty' for our very first test drive. We drove around our suburb and over a little 4wd track nearby. Needless to say it was bloody fantastic, not least because it seems that I probably won't need a full engine rebuild, but just a general tidy up.

Engine ran very well, no dramas at all, except for the standard LR oil leak. This is likely symptomatic of damage to the sump (large dent from a big rock I reckon) and subsequent damage to the seal/gasket between it and the main block. This will be replaced at a later stage when I have the engine out for a general tidy up.

Keeping in mind that this was my first time driving with a double clutch the changes did seem more 'grindy' then should be attributed to just my own personal inabilities. Whilst the gearbox itself seem to run smoothly enough, I think I may need to replace the clutch plates or something similar to tidy the changes up. Any thoughts or suggestions on the cause of the grinding (particularly prevalent changing into second) would be appreciated? I noted that in the higher gears it was possible to change without double clutching which again may be symptomatic of problems with the clutch?

Anyway, next step is to replace a bunch of panels and tidy the body up before removing and having painted in the original green (series 2, 1960). Any recommendations on a good panel beater / painter in the greater Canberra region (willing to drive to Sydney if need be) would be greatly appreciated. I am on a budget but am trying to get a decent finish.

Thanks again for all the advice from all and sundry.

Sam

1. Sump gasket. I hope you realise you can remove the sump with the engine in place? Not a big job either. But that may not be the source of the leak. A frequent leak, that ends up there, is the rocker cover gasket or the oil feed to the head at the back.


2. Clutch. Top two gears have synchromesh, which explains why less problems with these. If you can engage first or reverse when stopped without noise, there is nothing wrong with the clutch and the issue is your driving expertise. If it clashes engaging these when stopped and pausing a few seconds before engaging, the issue is almost certainly the clutch mechanism, not the clutch itself. It will be either the hydraulics, or one of the two cross pins that connect the tube between clutch release shaft and the slave cylinder bell crank, just outside the bell housing. If it is an early style slave cylinder setup, the pushrod is adjustable.

Hope this helps
.

G'day John,

Thanks for the quick response mate. Definitely helps.

1. Regarding the sump gasket and sump replacement/repair, I figured it could be done without removing the engine, however, I need to replace engine mounts and paint the chassis, so will be taking the engine out briefly anyway. Whilst it is out I will do what needs to be done to tidy it up as it will be easier to access/work on. I reckon it is probably worth replacing all of the gaskets, leads and spark plugs.

2. Regarding the clutch, I will give changing gears at a standstill a crack when I have it started next. Hopefully it is my lack of double clutch experience.

Appreciate the advice.

Still seeking recommendations on panel beater / painter in the Greater Canberra area if anyone can help. Would have about a two - three month turn around on the job so maybe something that a professional could do on the side at a reduced cash rate?

Thanks,

Sam

Hi Sam,
First, congrats on the first "test drive". Getting used to the 1st and 2nd in the gbox will take only a little time and soon it'll become second nature. These boxes are a very strong and robust box.
Next, it will pay to check the clutch while u have the engine out. Its easier to pull the engine than the gbox. Others will tell u different, but if ur pulling the donk out anyway, check it. Might pay u to do the rear seal while u have the donk out too, if its leaking. Bugger of a job but if done properly it shouldnt leak. My 2.25 petrol motor never leaked a drop of oil, unbelievable as it may seem. I hope i can fix the diesel motor that im doing's oil leaks as well as the petrol motor was. Good luck with it. Spending a little now will save more later. I dont know why but ive got a really good feeling about ur build. These vehicles are great pieces of useable history. Enjoy it and all the pleasure driving it will give u.

Cheers Rod