Series 2a - My First Restoration

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Originally Posted by TimNZ

Hi Jim,

I needed an extra grommet for the loom that goes to the rear of the chassis, it only had one. I've not done more than that so far with the loom, (apart from the engine), so I'm not sure what else I will need. There doesn't appear to be a lot of wiring for the binnacle, but until I get the firewall in I won't know for sure.

The engine loom and it looks correct so far, however I will have to make up new battery cables as they were not included.

Regarding the dampers, are they standard length, or longer to suit the para's? I have the stock dampers on my SIII and they are too short for the para's.

Cheers,

Tim

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Oh ok, I've got 1 usable chassis grommet left, so that might work out well. I'll have to do new battery cables as well. My battery is located under the passenger seat.

In regards to the shocks, they are "extra long travel". They are sitting rather positive (high) at the moment. I think once everything is in it will sort them out so they sit lower. I took some crude measurements and compared the chassis height to my friends ex mil 109 and I was sitting a good 2" inches above his chassis height - my chassis was unladen then. So I'm expecting it to lower a fair bit, once everything is back on. Notwithstanding, I am a little nervous as I'm not to sure if I need different shocks or not. I believe these are very similar to the Pro Comp Extra Long Travel ones and they are recommended for parabolics, so there shouldn't be an issue. I've seen similar builds with paras with these OME's on them and I'm yet to see a complaint. I'll find out soon enough if this is not the case!

Your shock absorbers - stock as in the original ones? or have you got a like for like replacement thats too short?

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Originally Posted by JimM

Your shock absorbers - stock as in the original ones? or have you got a like for like replacement thats too short?

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They are stock as in "OEM" Armstrong brand oil shocks ordered with the LR part number. I'll have to look into the Old Man Emus, I was eyeing up the Procomps, but not too many companies want to ship them internationally due to the gas charge.

Cheers,

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Originally Posted by TimNZ

They are stock as in "OEM" Armstrong brand oil shocks ordered with the LR part number. I'll have to look into the Old Man Emus, I was eyeing up the Procomps, but not too many companies want to ship them internationally due to the gas charge.

Cheers,

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Hi Tim,

I found a little more information on the pro comp and Old Man Emu's. They are the same with extra travel and are both recommend for vehicles with parabolic suspension. if you can't get pro comps, OME would be a very nice alternative.

Attachment 123770

Jim.

I struggled this weekend. I tried to get the gearbox back in and couldn't. It was late in the day so I started to run out of light, then it started pouring! Everything got wet. I wouldn't recommend doing that again.

I'm still trying to figure out why it didn't fit. So, here are the steps I took to fit it. Hopefully someone can see where I went wrong.

1) When fitting the clutch plate, I didn't have the correct tool so I used a makeshift tool which was shown to me in a tutorial. I used a socket and taped the outside so it didn't do any damage and fit snugly, helping (hopefully) to ensure the correct alignment. I stuck it on the end of an extension bar and inserted in into the hole in the flywheel.

Attachment 123890 Attachment 123891

2) I then placed the pressure plate on making sure I aligned the mark, that I previously made on the flywheel and plate. I tightened the pressure plate bolts to 25pound as per the instruction manual. I used my breaker bar to stop it spinning from the front.

Attachment 123894

I withdrew the socket and extension bar. I eyed it up and it looked ok.

Attachment 123892 Attachment 123893

I've taken a photo, however the more I look at it, the more I think it is off centre (could just be the angle of the photo?).

3) I used the block and tackle on the forks of the tractor to lower the gearbox in. I selected 4th gear before trying to put it in.
We lowered it in a rotated the the spline slowly to try and match it up. No amount of wiggling or pushing could get it in.
I tried jacking up the engine to change the angles and tired different angles of the gearbox.

I'm just not too sure how to get it to fit. Does anyone have any tips, or have I missed a very obvious step?


Thanks,

Jim

Is your clutch plate in the right way round?

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Originally Posted by Phil B

Is your clutch plate in the right way round?

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Don't tell me it's something as silly as that! how embarrassing! [bigsad]
In the tutorial I was watching I copied the way they installed it. Well, at least I thought I did.

You say the hole in the fly wheel ?
It should really be the spigot bush which is inside the hole in the crank that your alignment tool centres the plate off[wink11]

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Originally Posted by rangieman

You say the hole in the fly wheel ?
It should really be the spigot bush which is inside the hole in the crank that your alignment tool centres the plate off[wink11]

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By hole, I do mean spigot bush! haha I've got a fair way to go in terms of learning the correct terminology. But thats why I'm doing this!

Couple of things - as Rangieman says - is the spigot bush still in the back of the crank? Also, the clutch plate does look backwards in that's photo - the back of the clutch plate where the gearbox input shaft goes looks like it's sticking out too far - which could be the cause of your issue.

While you need to get the alignment close, the way you've done it is fine - that's all I've ever done. You can also double check it by seeing where the clutch plate sits around the edge compared to the pressure plate. Looking and feeling will tell you pretty quick if you're a long way out.

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Originally Posted by JimM

By hole, I do mean spigot bush! haha I've got a fair way to go in terms of learning the correct terminology. But thats why I'm doing this!

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If that`s the case then i would recheck c/plate alignment [wink11] i have done similar to what you have used but i put tape around the socket extension so it helps align the c/plate which is what it is all about ,
By the way after you have done it with the tool it always pays to eye it up through the c/plate hole for alignment to the spigot[wink11].
What side of town are you because if you were not too far from me i could swing around and help you if needed[thumbsupbig]