Series 2a - My First Restoration

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Originally Posted by Homestar

Couple of things - as Rangieman says - is the spigot bush still in the back of the crank? Also, the clutch plate does look backwards in that's photo - the back of the clutch plate where the gearbox input shaft goes looks like it's sticking out too far - which could be the cause of your issue.

While you need to get the alignment close, the way you've done it is fine - that's all I've ever done. You can also double check it by seeing where the clutch plate sits around the edge compared to the pressure plate. Looking and feeling will tell you pretty quick if you're a long way out.

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Cheers, thanks mate. Yep, spigot bush is still there. Good to know I was on the right track with some things! [bigsmile]

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Originally Posted by rangieman

If that`s the case then i would recheck c/plate alignment [wink11] i have done similar to what you have used but i put tape around the socket extension so it helps align the c/plate which is what it is all about ,
By the way after you have done it with the tool it always pays to eye it up through the c/plate hole for alignment to the spigot[wink11].
What side of town are you because if you were not too far from me i could swing around and help you if needed[thumbsupbig]

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I'm just east of Pakenham. I'll have another crack at it this weekend. I'll remove everything and start again, making sure I put the clutch plate the right way around! If I cant get it right, I might have to call in the cavalry. Would've have been good to get it done last weekend, as I'm picking of the Bbulkhead this weekend. I should be able to get both done though.

Thanks for all your help guys!

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I'll remove everything and start again, making sure I put the clutch plate the right way around!

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Remember..." When in doubt...fat side out" with the clutch plate...

Cheers Rod

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Originally Posted by JimM

Cheers, thanks mate. Yep, spigot bush is still there. Good to know I was on the right track with some things! [bigsmile]



I'm just east of Pakenham. I'll have another crack at it this weekend. I'll remove everything and start again, making sure I put the clutch plate the right way around! If I cant get it right, I might have to call in the cavalry. Would've have been good to get it done last weekend, as I'm picking of the Bbulkhead this weekend. I should be able to get both done though.

Thanks for all your help guys!

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Im in Nazza Wozza not too far away and happy to come help and looksy if you want[wink11]

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Originally Posted by rangieman

Im in Nazza Wozza not too far away and happy to come help and looksy if you want[wink11]

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Not too far away at all. Thanks for the offer, but I might need your help next time! I finally got the gearbox in.

I removed the pressure plate and clutch plate as we all thought it was the wrong way around. Turns out it was the right way around to begin with. Here are the photos of it front and back. last time we tried getting the gearbox in it was getting dark, so we were probably trying to rush - making a meal of it.

Correct way ("fat side out"):

Attachment 124279

Wrong way:
Attachment 124280

As you can see in the above photo, it's not possible to put the clutch plate in the wrong way as it would not sit flush with the flywheel surface. I cleaned the spline thoroughly in the gear box then attempted to put it all back in.

I did it all back up (like described in my previous post) and it just slid in first try! [bigsmile] very happy with that result.

Attachment 124282

I forgot to mention last time, that the replacement gearbox mount had a thread that was slightly larger hitting the chassis so it wouldn't sit flush with the chassis side of the mount. I had to tighten the mount in a vice, then slightly grind the thread down so it would sit flush.

Attachment 124281


There was also a delay with the bulkhead, so I'm picking it up this weekend. I'll maybe try and make a start on the electrics after that.

I picked up the bulk head and a few other pieces this weekend. Came out well.

Attachment 124630 Attachment 124631

I didn't have too much difficulty fitting it.

When I put one bulkhead bolt through, I found out it was slightly off.
Attachment 124632

As you can see the bolt holes in the bulk head and outrigger didn't quite align. I used a crow bar on the left of the bolt hole and placed it against the front tire to slightly push it out. The bolt went straight through after that.

I fitted a few different pieces I picked up, just to see what it looked like.

Attachment 124633

Next stop - electrics. I have no Idea what I'm doing in that area!

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Originally Posted by JimM

Next stop - electrics. I have no Idea what I'm doing in that area!

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lol - I feel exactly the same way, glad I am not the only one! Damn electrics.

I've now had a crack at putting the harness in. With a help of a friend and a few beers one night, we have most of the wiring done. The Autospark harness has been great and when read with the wiring diagram is rather straight forward. The new harness makes a huge difference and looks nice and neat. I've also finally got the old bus undercover for the first time. It's quite nice being able to work on it past dark and out of the cold!

First thing we did was get out the old harness, so we could reference which end was what on the new harness and set it up quite basically.

Attachment 125164 Attachment 125165
From there we worked our way back using the diagram on one branch of the harness at a time.

I had to remove one bulk head pin and pivot the bulkhead to allow us to feed through the wiring loom to the rear crossmember.
Attachment 125174

After this we connected up the engine components. The next job was the gauges. I haven't painted the gauge panel yet, so we removed it and we connected each gauge and switch up ready to insert once the panel has been painted.

Attachment 125175 Attachment 125194

Obviously there are differences between the British built land rover S2a and the Aus built, so there are some discrepancies in the wiring loom (I may have gotten these wrong and misread the diagram so any feed back or corrections on these are welcome!).
Things to note are:

• I found that the fuel gauge sender is in the loom which goes to the rear crossmember / lights. I will need to bring this back towards the front along the chassis rail to connect up to fuel tank under my drivers seat.
• The cold start connection on the wiring loom is an eyelet connection, when on the motor its a spade. I will need to change the fitting here to work
• The alternator modification I got will need to be changed just slightly. I have to change 2 of the cable ends to eyelet connections.
• I've got a small separate loom of (3 wires from memory) blue wires with white and red markings, which I don't know what its for. I have a feeling this might be for the wiper motor).

We also has a crack at the front brake lines, once the majority of the wiring was done. One brake line was too long, so had to twist it a couple of times around a duct tape roll to lose the extra length. Worked very well and looks quite neat.

Attachment 125187

Next steps for me now are to start putting some body panels back on. That way I can start connecting up the lights and start trouble shooting from there. Slowly getting there.

I recently received a new order from overseas, so I was able to pick up the tools again and continue chipping away at the project.
First job was to finish off the brake lines. I received the new braided brakes lines. These were standard length plus 2 inches to allow for the parabolic suspension. I've heard that these are better than the rubber hoses however, I think the jury is out. I'll soon find out.

Just a shot of how the brakes lines matched up. I was pretty apprehensive before taking on the brake line job, but was surprised about how straight forward it was - even only bending them by hand.

Attachment 126288 Attachment 126289

I remember reading on this forum that it is critical you purchase the right tie rod ends for your car. On closer inspection my car was fitted with the wrong ones. As you can see in the photo below the rods in the linkage are only partly treaded, with the tie rod ends fully threaded. I made sure I got the tie rod ends to match.

Attachment 126290 Attachment 126291

I then installed the steering linkage. I read somewhere that the bottom arm and top arm of the steering relay have to be offset by 81 degrees from each other (as opposed to 90 degrees). Is this correct? This is how I set mine up.

Attachment 126293 Attachment 126294

I adjusted the rod lengths so the wheels were aligned with a slight toe-in and then put the steering wheel on.

I think I've found the centre of the steering box, with the wheel turning evenly both ways. I was rather pedantic about not adjusting the steering column / box to ensure I didn't much it up. Although I think there is some fine tuning required.

Attachment 126295

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Originally Posted by JimM

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I then installed the steering linkage. I read somewhere that the bottom arm and top arm of the steering relay have to be offset by 81 degrees from each other (as opposed to 90 degrees). Is this correct? This is how I set mine up. ....

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According to my books, Series 1 is 81 degrees, but Series 2a is 90 degrees. I doubt it is significant though - may change the lock slightly.

One point I dis note when checking this - make sure that the steering link between the steering box and the relay does not come closer than an inch to the brake line, bending the brake line if necessary.

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

According to my books, Series 1 is 81 degrees, but Series 2a is 90 degrees. I doubt it is significant though - may change the lock slightly.

One point I dis note when checking this - make sure that the steering link between the steering box and the relay does not come closer than an inch to the brake line, bending the brake line if necessary.

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Oh Awesome! Thanks mate. I'm obviously reading rebuild threads on all the series and mixing them up. This information might come in handy for a series 1 rebuild - If i ever manage to find one!

I might have to check the distance between those two now you mention it. Did it mention why one inch? I run my brake lines on top of that chassis rail, then down and behind the front crossmember for the front left wheel. If I have clips securing the brake line in place, would that eliminate the perceived risk?