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Thank you Chops, Rod and Lotz-A for the help.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies
Are the aluminium ones you refer to the e-bay special ones?
I'm not going to be doing hard off road work on this Land Rover - It'll be more of a Sunday Driver, with the potential to cruise around the farm if it's good conditions. Given this - is there a relatively cheaper option you'd recommend? or it it worth getting the original re-cored?
Dunno where you are in Melbourne - I've had rads built by Campbellfield Radiators - for older cars , beaut work and priced right - 3 core HD for a Valiant was just under $700.
3 years on it still a ripper .
No connection ,just did a good job .
My quote was friom a guy in Clayton, and it is to match what i currently have.
I'm sure that mine is a 4 core, which can be replaced by an alloy core, quite cheaply if i remember correctly, at about $500 (?), but I'd prefer to have it as an original.
Most of the cheap ones you find about the traps are sourced out of the UK, are 3 row core and have a round top tank of the Series 3 design. Judges at display days may mark down this top tank as not original.
If you're pedantic about things like these you may want to re-core rather than replace.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rextheute
Thanks Rex and Chops, judging by the sounds of that $800 doesn't seem too bad. Although... its worth more than what I paid for the car in the first place! [bigrolf]Quote:
Originally Posted by Chops
Not too sure I'm pedantic about those things. I wasn't even thinking I'd ever enter this car into a comp. I doubt I'd go well at all. This is my first attempt at this so the workmanship wouldn't be up there. Plus I have metric bolts, parabolic springs, braided brake lines. Wouldn't I get penalised for all those things?Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies
The weather was surprisingly good this weekend, so I managed to get a bit of painting done.
I stripped the internal sides of the wings as they were discoloured and stained. I first stripped them with a wire wheel, then went over it with wet dry sand paper. I then primed the sides and painted over it with a pressure pack paint. Once the colour coats dried, I applied a clear coat with a hardner to protect it. I have heard stories of clear coats discolouring when exposed to heat, so I will see how this goes. Once again I found tape and aluminium foil the best way to mask off surfaces.
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I have purposely left the external panels untouched. It is my intention to have everything under the hood to look 'near-new' along the with cockpit, whilst leaving the chipped paint externally to keep its character.
I also managed to do the seat box too. Same methodology as above. There is some aluminium corrosion present, however I have treated it and it will be situated under the floor panels.
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I also started polishing the headlight chrome rim. I just used a metal polish and it came up looking nice. The picture below is showing treated area vs worn condition.
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Once the headlight assemblies were put in the wings and the panels were dry, I was able to put in the front right wing! Starting to look like something you can drive.
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Thats all I could get done on the weekend.
Next, I will have to get the manifold studs out as they have corroded threads and with the new exhaust I can't tighten the nuts enough. Best option I've seen on the internet is an Oxy torch (which I don't have). Heat them up and then apply cold water straight away, then they can twist out. I have tried vice grips to twist and soaked the manifold studs in WD40 for weeks, but they aren't coming out. Is there another effective method that can be used here?
I was shown that tightening the nuts a tad first before trying to loosen works. Dont think wd40 is strong enough... have you tried diesel? I use diesel as my no1 lube and for many nut/bolts i have successfully removed them.
It's been a long time between posts as I've been away on holiday and had a break from working on the car. I've recently been getting back into it with a little more progress. I ended up biting the bullet and getting the radiator recored.It ended up costing $700, which was less than the original quote. They did a great job on it. I also had to take the manifold into the local mechanics, so they could use an oxy torch on the studs and install the new ones.
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When it came to installing the front grille panel and radiator the rubber spacers I had were very worn. In searching for an alternative, I came across these anti-vibration pads. I found them to be the correct height and all I had to do was drill a hole in them to allow the bolt to go through. It will be interesting to see how these wear over time - but at the moment they seem to be fit for purpose.
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Here is a quick before and after of how the engine bay is looking. It's come along way (further than I thought I could take it) hopefully its not too long before I can start driving it again!
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Next steps will be tub, doors, finalisation of the electrics and a new battery. Hopefully then I can try and turn it over.
Great work looking nice
Some more work over the weekend, with a nice little milestone! - but I'll get to that later.
If I was to do this process again, I'd start by putting the tub on first, so then I can square up the bulkhead to the tub. Once I got the tub on, I realised the bulkhead wasn't exactly square - causing door fitting issues. The parabolic springs at the back (as they were unladen) were sitting really high, giving a false impression that the bulkhead was square.
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The dog was pretty happy with the outcome. Now she can sit comfortably on top and project manage everything from here on in.
I had to shim the bulkhead forward, to allow for enough spacing for the doors - however I think my hinges are a little worn complicating the fitting process.
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I also received a few goodies this week - which I am yet to fit.
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part no. 541522. I also realised that my Lucas wiper motor came with no gearing! So I also had to order that as well.
What is the correct part number for the wiper rack on a SIIA? I've ordered a wiper rack however it seems too thick?
With the help of a friend we finalised most of the electrics, got a new battery and tried to start it. My girlfriend was in town and picked up a N70ZZ battery with 900CCA for me. I think that is enough CCA to turn it over [tonguewink]
We came across a few issues like a bad earth etc, but the the biggest problems was with the starter motor. I withdrew the starter motor and it seemed a bit sticky so I loosened it up with some lubricant, but it would only turn intermittently when put on current. I then took it apart to realise one of the brushes was recessed back inside the casing and wouldn't return. I wiggled it and it popped out, creating contact. I hope this part makes sense as I forgot to take photos! Once the brush was fixed, it worked like a charm!
After that I was able to start it for the first time! It's a great feeling being able to hear it run again. Took it for a little test ride as well, was good fun - although the brakes need some more bleeding. I would upload a video of the engine running - if I knew how.
I installed the seatbox and the seat bases.
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Next steps for me are to:
- bleed the brakes again
- learn how to refurbish the steering wheel
- connect the lights up
- get a truck cab (anyone here have one for sale?)
- get some lights for the dash. I've ordered a set of LED ones.
- I also want to find some floor mats, but all the floor mats I can find say they don't fit a 6cyl.
