Page 12 of 14 FirstFirst ... 21011121314 LastLast
Results 111 to 120 of 132

Thread: Series 2a - My First Restoration

  1. #111
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    20,493
    Quote Originally Posted by JimM View Post
    ....... Did it mention why one inch? I run my brake lines on top of that chassis rail, then down and behind the front crossmember for the front left wheel. If I have clips securing the brake line in place, would that eliminate the perceived risk?
    No mention of why this clearance is specified, but I would guess that it is because the clearance will vary both as the pitman arm on the steering box swings and as the link pivots on the ball joints, plus that you really don't want anything that moves rubbing against a brake pipe. And there needs to be a safety margin to allow for things to move that really shouldn't (such as the arm on the relay becoming loose allowing the whole setup to droop a bit) without disastrous results. I suspect that there is nothing magic about the actual figure, and something close to the inch mark would be adequate, especially if you made sure it was measured at the closest approach, checking with the rod twisted down and at the lowest swing of the pitman.

    I don't think that movement of the brake line is the issue, so the clips on it are not going to affect the situation.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  2. #112
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Narre Warren Sth - Albury
    Posts
    6,491
    Starting to look like a work of art really. So nice 👍

    Just wondering if your trip meter reset button on the speedo works (?) Unfortunately mine doesn't, I'll have to look into trying to fix it.
    Marcus & Leeanne
    2016.5 Loire Blue HSE D4
    1971 S2a Wide Light
    2017 New Age 21' Blue Diamond Caravan
    2011 Crew Cab, Gone.


    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-disco...permagrin.html
    https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-ii...ide-light.html

  3. #113
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    54
    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    No mention of why this clearance is specified, but I would guess that it is because the clearance will vary both as the pitman arm on the steering box swings and as the link pivots on the ball joints, plus that you really don't want anything that moves rubbing against a brake pipe. And there needs to be a safety margin to allow for things to move that really shouldn't (such as the arm on the relay becoming loose allowing the whole setup to droop a bit) without disastrous results. I suspect that there is nothing magic about the actual figure, and something close to the inch mark would be adequate, especially if you made sure it was measured at the closest approach, checking with the rod twisted down and at the lowest swing of the pitman.

    I don't think that movement of the brake line is the issue, so the clips on it are not going to affect the situation.
    Thanks for the help. Your knowledge is always appreciated here! I'll double check all the dimensions when I get back there. The double loop I put in my brake lines might come close to the drop arm.

    Quote Originally Posted by Chops View Post
    Starting to look like a work of art really. So nice 👍

    Just wondering if your trip meter reset button on the speedo works (?) Unfortunately mine doesn't, I'll have to look into trying to fix it.
    Thanks Chops! Very kind words. My trip metre reset button does work thankfully. I wouldn't know the first thing about pulling it apart.
    I've got to find a good way of 'sealing' the gauges back in the panel. I'm thinking I'll just use the left over black gasket silicone. Would this do the same job?

    IMG_6040.jpg IMG_6041.jpg

    Above is the gauge panel, which I used paint stripper to bring back to bare metal. I then used wet/dry sand paper to remove the scoring marks. Then put a self etching primer on top. I didn't get a photo of the colour after the final layers, but it matched perfectly with the bulk head.

  4. #114
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    20,493
    Series trip meter reset is not a button - you have to twist it!
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #115
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Narre Warren Sth - Albury
    Posts
    6,491
    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Series trip meter reset is not a button - you have to twist it!

    Thanks John, I never even gave a thought to twisting it
    Marcus & Leeanne
    2016.5 Loire Blue HSE D4
    1971 S2a Wide Light
    2017 New Age 21' Blue Diamond Caravan
    2011 Crew Cab, Gone.


    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-disco...permagrin.html
    https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-ii...ide-light.html

  6. #116
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Hobart Tasmania
    Posts
    3,430
    I pulled my dash apart, including the speedo unit, although I didnt touch the mechanism as it is working. Not hard at all really and I used RTV to seal the glass ring back in so would minimise dust getting into the unit.

    Of course, got vids on these if you want to see what I did (not saying I am the expert tho, but perhaps some ideas)

    Carlos
    1995 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
    1964 Land Rover Series 2a 88 - current project rebuild
    1967 Viscount Ambassador 20ft Classic Caravan
    Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu3RwTvV8BtsNIuTyGkAo5w

  7. #117
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    54
    It's been a while since I've been able to tinker away, but I was able to get a few things done this weekend.

    I corrected the streering so that the relay arms are 90 degrees of each other. Previously I had the relay arms offset 81 degrees - a series 1 requirement.

    I also did some paint prep for the seat box and other bits a pieces ready to go back in. The bottom of the seat box had a sealant all around. I believe that this is to stop any water getting in, however it was a very messy application looking very untidy, so I thought I would strip it and then paint over it.

    IMG_6171.jpg

    I took my radiator in for a quote this morning. Here is a photo of it in it's current condition. Looks like it has had a hard life.

    IMG_6170.jpg

    I was quoted $800 for a re-core. I can't say I want to pay that much. Looks like i'll have to try and find a decent second hand one? No one here is selling one are they?

    I know you can buy 4cyl radiators from the major land rover websites, but does any one know who is selling replacement ones for the 6cyl?

    Once I find a replacement radiator, I'll be able to fire the engine up! (hopefully it starts!)

  8. #118
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Blair Athol, Adelaide South Aust.
    Posts
    1,810
    The 4 cyl rads were a 3 core and the 6 cyl rads were a 4 core. Good luck getting a second hand 4 core. I couldnt find one anywhere after a fan shattered and destroyed my good 4 core rad on my s3. Hope u find one.

    Cheers Rod
    Cheers, Rod


    BETSY
    1967 Series 2a. 109 4 cyl petrol, Fairey o/drive, Athol Hedges roof.
    Currently undergoing rebuild.
    Will have-- soft top, 4 wheel disc brakes, salisbury rear diff, military colour, 12 pin nato socket, dual pintle hitch....

    1975 Series 3. 109 6cyl 186, 5 speed Nissan cabstar gearbox, mechanical winch, roo bar, kings awning, 50" light bar, roof rack, twin 6"light bars, kings awning tent.

    1969 NO. 5 trailer. ARN 176 464. soft top.

  9. #119
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Narre Warren Sth - Albury
    Posts
    6,491
    $800 for a recore, that's not bad,,, I got quoted over $1000, and he said it would be closer to $1200. He did look though as if he was unsure and it could be more.
    But that's basically a total replacement rebuild using my tanks only pretty much.
    Marcus & Leeanne
    2016.5 Loire Blue HSE D4
    1971 S2a Wide Light
    2017 New Age 21' Blue Diamond Caravan
    2011 Crew Cab, Gone.


    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-disco...permagrin.html
    https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-ii...ide-light.html

  10. #120
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    East-South-East Girt-By-Sea
    Posts
    17,703
    Quote Originally Posted by 67hardtop View Post
    The 4 cyl rads were a 3 core and the 6 cyl rads were a 4 core. Good luck getting a second hand 4 core. I couldnt find one anywhere after a fan shattered and destroyed my good 4 core rad on my s3. Hope u find one.

    Cheers Rod
    Not quite true in Oz. From the early days in Australia the engines had problems dealing with the higher ambient temperatures so the four cylinders in Oz were specified with the diesel 4 core radiators. You're unwise to use the 3 core particularly if you use the vehicle a lot or do hard off highway use.
    Aluminium replacement cores are cheaper than the copper cores. If you use green coolant make sure you replace it every 12 months as the glycol becomes corrosive to the alloy.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

Page 12 of 14 FirstFirst ... 21011121314 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!