Thread: Series 2a - My First Restoration

No probs, and if you get the lines out in one piece, they have the exact length so no need to measure them, you'll just get back new versions of what you removed.

Originally Posted by Homestar

No probs, and if you get the lines out in one piece, they have the exact length so no need to measure them, you'll just get back new versions of what you removed.

Thanks Homestar, I took your advice. Luckily I had the lines out in one piece a while ago. I took everything into a local brake manufacture this sat. Great service too, they are only opened to 9-5 mon to fri, however after mentioning on the phone that I have to work in the city and wouldn't be able to drop the brakes off during those times, they arranged for me to be able to drop them off on saturday afternoon. I got a call today and they are done. Quick turn around time frame. Just have to pick them up this weekend and try to install them.

Other than that I only got little bits done. I put the water pump (had to replace gasket) and engine back on, as well as the exhaust manifold.
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I would like to say the engine and gearbox should be ready to go back in next weekend. I just have to wait for the carb gasket to come, they sent me one with scollops taken out of it. Strange.

There is a little job to do with the rear axels. The eyelets where the rear suspension pin goes through to mount the shocks are severely worn so I am planning to try and fix it. I will have to weld an extra plate over the worn holes and re-drill it. This job was meant to be done prior to sandblasting, unfortunately it was forgotten about. This is a little prototype I cut out. Would a plate this size and approx 3mm thick be fine to the job?
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A few things ticked off this week.

With the help of a friend we managed to fix the worn shock pin holes in the rear axle. Using the template I made, we made two plates out of 3mm steel to cover the worn area.
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We created the hole large enough to accommodate the lip from the shock washers, so it sits inside perfectly. Hopefully to avoid wearing in the future.
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From there we had to strip back the paint to create a clean surface to weld with. We welded it up, then painted over it black. Turned out pretty well. Hopefully it wont be wearing anytime soon!
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I also managed to fit and bend up the Rear brake line. Looks pretty good. I didn't have small enough bolts to the "p" clips to fix them down, but when they are in place the piping looks nice and straight, unlike in this photo - but you get the idea.

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Super keen to get the engine and gearbox back in. I just have to find the time!

This thread is great... I have the same issue with the rear shock eyelet, in my case its broken through the end and bent up so in theory I should be able to bend back straight and weld. If not ill take on your method

Originally Posted by Cap

This thread is great... I have the same issue with the rear shock eyelet, in my case its broken through the end and bent up so in theory I should be able to bend back straight and weld. If not ill take on your method

Thanks Cap.
Yeah I thought considering everything was back together and we had forgotten about the worn holes, this was the easiest way to fix the problem.
Would have been nice to have done it before the painting so the eyelets could be fixed and you wouldn't even notice. But I don't think you'll see it anyway once the shock is in.

Sounds like yours will be a little easier to fix! Just out of curiosity, would bending the steel back into place create residual stress and weaken it? or given that you're only doing it once and then welding it up it will be fine?

Good point about bending it back... I am very light on tools at the moment and buying what I need as I go... so I dont have a propane torch to pre-heat and bend back which is what I will do. I think because its a thick piece of metal this should be fine. My brother used to be a metal fabricator/welder, so I always ask him first!

Secondly, my chassis and bulkhead is in VERY poor shape... huge amounts of rust at front *dumb irons" and the rear cross member, and both bulkhead outriggers are rusted through. So in terms of welding fab work ahead of me, I got loads and possibly have to junk the chassis and replace with another if I can find one. Also, the bulkhead is badly rusted, both door pillars and around the vents, also foot wells etc.

So this will be a challenge for me, hence threads like yours assist me greatly with what to expect.

Originally Posted by Cap

Good point about bending it back... I am very light on tools at the moment and buying what I need as I go... so I dont have a propane torch to pre-heat and bend back which is what I will do. I think because its a thick piece of metal this should be fine. My brother used to be a metal fabricator/welder, so I always ask him first!

Secondly, my chassis and bulkhead is in VERY poor shape... huge amounts of rust at front *dumb irons" and the rear cross member, and both bulkhead outriggers are rusted through. So in terms of welding fab work ahead of me, I got loads and possibly have to junk the chassis and replace with another if I can find one. Also, the bulkhead is badly rusted, both door pillars and around the vents, also foot wells etc.

So this will be a challenge for me, hence threads like yours assist me greatly with what to expect.

Well your brother would know more than me being a fabricator, so I'd listen to him

I'm glad my thread can help out. My chassis wasn't in very good condition either, but you can see how much they can improve.
I wish I knew how to weld, would be very handy and would help keep the costs of the rebuild down!

I am expecting my bulkhead back soon. Hopefully it turns out a treat! Mine was only really rusted out in the footwells. Easy enough to replace.

Originally Posted by JimM

I wish I knew how to weld, would be very handy and would help keep the costs of the rebuild down!

Jim, I went to a community centre course to learn basic welding for only $80 before I started my rebuild - it taught me enough to be dangerous lol .You might find something similar in Melbourne.The basics are actually quite easy to learn, then its all about practice.

this is a really helpful site:

Stick Welding, MIG Welding, and TIG Welding Blog