My first series 2a project

I got hold of 5 Defender 130 steel rims (ANR1534 - 6.5Lx16x20.6) and want to use these with 7.50 rubber. Is there anything I need to consider when putting these in? Do I need to modify steering stops, or what about the wheel studs?

EDIT: The hubs came from the 109 (1976) - these where the ones that where pressed in rather then screwed in, but still the same diameter. This is why I kept these hubs as the original screw in studs ended up mostly unscrewing and chewing up the threads as they came out.

I was going to ask this very question of you Carlos. I'm keen to see what the outcome is, because the wheels I have now (originals I believe) just look small and narrow. Giving the old girl a slightly better stance seems the right thing to do,, why?,, cause I can [wink11] (maybe [bighmmm])

The 130 wheels should fit with no issues except steering stops. There is a possibility that you may need longer studs, but I think your 1976 hubs should be OK. These should be the 16mm studs used since the startt of Series 3 until the end of Defender production, although length varied a bit.

You may have to (or be able to) adjust the steering stops, depending on the tyres fitted and the wheel offset. I do this pragmatically - jack up the front and adjust the stops so that on full lock your tyres clear the spring/ chassis by about 2cm. This will usually get you a bit sharper turn than the book adjustment, but you need the most lock you can get!

But you need to be aware that wider tyres than standard, and wider offset wheels will increase steering load, especially at parking speeds and for drivers used to power steering. It is unlikely that any sensible changes will infringe legal limits, but there is a slight possibility you may be called on to justify them at some stage. The Australian Series 3 Game or the optional 9.00 x 15 sand tyres should cover anything sensible!

Thanks John - ill check these two (steering and studs) and see how we go. I did read that by design the lug nuts should at the very least cover the stud threads, so that no threads are left exposed. However, I wasnt sure on what is the safe/legal limits of the amount of threads to secure the nuts. This means that if the rim thickness is greater than the 5" rims, then naturally this will limit nut travel - so the decision to change to 16mm longer studs (and I read there is also a difference between the 110 and 130 stud length) is a grey area it seems.

I dont like grey areas, I prefer to know whats within design tolerances and what isnt. Is there any info on how much thread a nut needs to clamp onto a stud that is within tolerance?

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Originally Posted by Cap

..... I did read that by design the lug nuts should at the very least cover the stud threads, so that no threads are left exposed.....

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Worth noting that Landrovers up to late S2a using 9/16" BSF studs had double sided nuts that protruded several threads past the end of the studs. These were replaced for a very short while with single sided nuts, still on the same studs, but 27mm AF, thinner, so that several threads of the stud protruded. These were in turn replaced by 16mm studs with 27mm AF nuts and about one thread protruding, which remained the standard for steel wheels for the rest of Series and 90/110/Defender) production.

Worth noting that the combination of a much larger PCD and also larger studs than any of their competitors makes the Series (and many later Landrovers) have much more securely attached wheels than most vehicles (provided they are tightened properly!). Discovery 2 and other later model Landrovers use a tight fitting centre hole in the wheel that reduces the load on the studs, but can make the wheel hard to get off if there is a buildup of corrosion or dirt.

After a lengthy break from the project (possibly due to burnout), I am cracking at it again to have it done to use over summer. Just placed a large order with Craddocks to get some bits in, but at this point in time I have removed the gearbox and swapped it with my second one along with the Fairey overdrive. Overdirve has been installed, and this week the gearbox goes back in (I replaced a rear output seal as handbrake was oily).

For photos, check my Instagram profile Rover_Tasmania

One thing I do want to ask is around voltage stabilisers, senders and gauges. Recently I have got hold of a late 2a panel (with toggle switches) and decided to swap over the water temp cluster (the whole unit, not just the water temp). So rather than amps, I got water temp. I also did some electrickery with the charge light so it works as a charge light and the original charge light is now my main bean indicator...

Anyway, the late 2a panel has the speedo, but NO VS... I read everywhere that a VS is needed for these types of gauges (both temp and fuel level). When I connected it up, the temp gauge rose slowly (cold engine) to the Normal range when it should have been cold. Running the engine for a bit, water temps got to warm but the Temp was indicating Hot. I also thought the fuel level was optimistically high too.

So, whats the story, do I need a VS or not seeing it didnt come with it (I also had a mate check a late 2a panel he has and it also didnt have a VS). Or could it be the sender, given the 2.25 diesel is off a S3 so the sender would be different perhaps? The joys of mixing stuff, but would like to know if I need a VS to start with or did they not come out without one for this model? And if not, what sender did they use?

Cheers,

Was just wondering the other week if this was still a goer. [emoji4][emoji106]

Any video update coming - it’s been a year since the last one I think. [emoji4]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cap

After a lengthy break from the project (possibly due to burnout), I am cracking at it again to have it done to use over summer. Just placed a large order with Craddocks to get some bits in, but at this point in time I have removed the gearbox and swapped it with my second one along with the Fairey overdrive. Overdirve has been installed, and this week the gearbox goes back in (I replaced a rear output seal as handbrake was oily).

For photos, check my Instagram profile Rover_Tasmania

One thing I do want to ask is around voltage stabilisers, senders and gauges. Recently I have got hold of a late 2a panel (with toggle switches) and decided to swap over the water temp cluster (the whole unit, not just the water temp). So rather than amps, I got water temp. I also did some electrickery with the charge light so it works as a charge light and the original charge light is now my main bean indicator...

Anyway, the late 2a panel has the speedo, but NO VS... I read everywhere that a VS is needed for these types of gauges (both temp and fuel level). When I connected it up, the temp gauge rose slowly (cold engine) to the Normal range when it should have been cold. Running the engine for a bit, water temps got to warm but the Temp was indicating Hot. I also thought the fuel level was optimistically high too.

So, whats the story, do I need a VS or not seeing it didnt come with it (I also had a mate check a late 2a panel he has and it also didnt have a VS). Or could it be the sender, given the 2.25 diesel is off a S3 so the sender would be different perhaps? The joys of mixing stuff, but would like to know if I need a VS to start with or did they not come out without one for this model? And if not, what sender did they use?

Cheers,

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You need a voltage stabiliser. This is, in the 2a, fitted to the back of the speedo, in a series 3 to the firewall. The original is a bimetal strip design, which produces an on/off switching of the supply to average 10v, which is smoothed out by the slow response of the gauges. These are available from the usual suppliers or s/h and you can also get solid state ones. In my experience the original ones are very reliable, with "faulty" ones usually having a poor connection rather than the unit being faulty. The unit must be earthed. From memory, one relies on the case and the other needs a third wire to earth (2a vs 3). A faulty earth to the whole instrument panel will show up as a faulty voltage stabiliser!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Cap

After a lengthy break from the project (possibly due to burnout), I am cracking at it again to have it done to use over summer. Just placed a large order with Craddocks to get some bits in, but at this point in time I have removed the gearbox and swapped it with my second one along with the Fairey overdrive. Overdirve has been installed, and this week the gearbox goes back in (I replaced a rear output seal as handbrake was oily).

For photos, check my Instagram profile Rover_Tasmania

One thing I do want to ask is around voltage stabilisers, senders and gauges. Recently I have got hold of a late 2a panel (with toggle switches) and decided to swap over the water temp cluster (the whole unit, not just the water temp). So rather than amps, I got water temp. I also did some electrickery with the charge light so it works as a charge light and the original charge light is now my main bean indicator...

Anyway, the late 2a panel has the speedo, but NO VS... I read everywhere that a VS is needed for these types of gauges (both temp and fuel level). When I connected it up, the temp gauge rose slowly (cold engine) to the Normal range when it should have been cold. Running the engine for a bit, water temps got to warm but the Temp was indicating Hot. I also thought the fuel level was optimistically high too.

So, whats the story, do I need a VS or not seeing it didnt come with it (I also had a mate check a late 2a panel he has and it also didnt have a VS). Or could it be the sender, given the 2.25 diesel is off a S3 so the sender would be different perhaps? The joys of mixing stuff, but would like to know if I need a VS to start with or did they not come out without one for this model? And if not, what sender did they use?

Cheers,

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Re the VS - I have some spare electronic regulators that I bought for series vehicles that are far better than the bi metal can - it's a 3 legged unit in a TO-220 package - 12.5 to 28 volt in, 10 volt out and an earth - it can fit in an old VS can as well to make it looks factory - if you want one, PM me your address and I'll stick one in the mail - I even know where they are... [biggrin]

This is the unit - https://au.element14.com/texas-instr...ICONDUCTOR-ICS

This is what confused me as the panel I have was a S2a. Anyway, I checked tonight and can confirm they are the slow moving ones. Both temp and fuel read too High, I checked the fuel level by plugging in my original gauge and it showed 2/3 full, yet new gauge shows full.

Given both are out, I can at least for now ignore the sender as being I correct until after a vs install.

Thanks again for confirming.

Homestar - ill PM you to chat.

Cheers,