I have some bad news for you - the fuel gauge senders are not interchangeable. I think they work in the opposite sense.
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I have some bad news for you - the fuel gauge senders are not interchangeable. I think they work in the opposite sense.
I once disassembled a fuel gauge sender, reversed everything (which included bending stuff the opposite way) and got it to match the gauge and read properly.
Right, so ill need to check that too! I thought land rover series remained 'unchanged' for 40 years [bigwhistle]
Completely unchanged - apart from the bits they changed... [biggrin]
Actually it's a minefield as changes happened mid production so you can't even narrow some parts down to just the Series model...
And even if they did, bits can mostly be swapped, but you have to know about things such as the senders and gauges needing to both be swapped (and this, incidentally, happened at chassis number suffix 'C'), one of the changes that happened at a specified point!
I tried the 1.5A 7810 voltage regulator, but it burnt out after only a short time. I was powering just the fuel gauge and temp gauge. I had the heatsink connected to the case for best cooling, which was attached to the firewall.Quote:
Originally Posted by Homestar
So I stuck with the bimetallic strip type.
Cheers
John
Interesting, I’ve put a couple in different vehicles and had no issues. As they are only good for 1.5 amps, any faulty wiring, components, etc could easily cause them to go I suppose but under normal conditions, the gauges don’t pull anywhere close to this.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnboyLandy
Following up on the VS - so I managed to get hold of a used one (actually, 2 used ones, one with a fried internal and one with rusted shell, but OK internals) and made one good one. I tested this, and then installed. Funny thing is I rejigged some wiring, added a few more and bam, works a treat! Of course wasnt that easy, I needed to think, rethink, blow fuses, rethinking more.... but eventually it clicked.
Looking at the VS, what a simple but flawed design... if that sucker ever drops from a vertical position, it basically turns into a heat element! So a FUSE is required, and this is why the fried one looked the way it did.
Anyway, moving on to exhaust - I got the system yesterday. Tried to install and once again cursing had commenced! How the hell does one put the header pipe in (this is a S3 setup, going under not on the side), with it being one piece that bends up over the gbox xmember? Is there a trick, technique? I tried feeding it from behind the xmember, got 3/4 way through then started bounding up on stuff. Tried other way, from front with the removal of passenger side wheel, still no go. So, please school me on how to do this.
Cheers
UPDATE: to fit the exhaust, one needs to remove the passenger side gearbox mounting bracket. Remove it completely, position the exhaust and then fit it back to that the exhaust sits on the chassis side of the gearbox mounting bracket. So that was finally put in, only to discover the intermediate pipe is the wrong one!!! The joys of building [bigwhistle]
Question... does anyone know what radiator hose will fit the water pump outlet (38mm Od) to the radiator bottom straight outlet (28mm od)? My prev radiator had the bottom outlet at 45 degree, so I had the boomerang chapped Hose. Of course now that Hose needs a kink in it to fit the rad outlet. Anyone seen one of these?