My first series 2a project

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Originally Posted by Cap

In trying to understand the 1967 109, it gets a bit confusing given the year and some changes made over that time. Can some one confirm with me:

1) Brakes - it has the single link system? If so is it possible to put the later twin link system in? (for safety)
Dual circuit brakes were fitted about six or seven years later, during S3 production. These can be fitted, but the Series 3 splash panel (footwell to top of mudguard) is flat on the Series 2/2a, but on the Series 3 is shaped to clear a tandem master cylinder and booster. It attaches to the mudguard further forwar, and to fit one you need to make a new bracket and rivet or weld it to the mudguard. Whether it is worth the cost and work of the change, I am not too sure - brake failure with single circuit systems is very rare on properly maintained systems (including the daily checks for leaks), and not unheard of on dual circuit systems, where one circuit can fail without the driver being aware due to a faulty warning switch etc. Booster is probably a good idea, although the brakes are quite reasonable in good condition, despite higher pedal force than most modern vehicles.

2) Brake size - are the drum brakes the larger 11" ones or are these upgraded usually?

As Colin says, 11" is standard for 109s, sixes and eights came with wider front drums, which mean replacing the entire front brake assembly except wheel cylinders. Probably worthwhile, especially if planning on heavy loads or if you live in a hilly area.

3) No belts - is it possible to put lap belts (not ones bolted to pillars) and did they come out with that option?

Lap belts are possible, but as Colin says, check your state regulations. I suspect they would have been legal if fitted from new, but you may need three point belts for the outboard positions if fitted now. The only problem is probably the shoulder mount.

Cheers,

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My take, similar to Colin

This is a great thread Carlos, you've done very well indeed. 👍

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Originally Posted by Cap

Thanks Colin... I have since posting found more info on AULRO regarding the brake setups, pros and cons etc so that also helped.

Pics always helps :)

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Seatbelt pictures here Walter the Dormobile

Colin

My son and i continued with dismantling the 2a...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPnq0CwLY84

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JTtPwpwMzU

Does anyone have lucas window washer motors for sale?

Pluggin away while I have the time!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzungwDBxzA

Got a load done over the last 2 days with the tub, getting the floor out! Theres a hefty amount of rivets and sneaky spot welds too.

Part 3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOo_Qj-pJCg

Part 4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXGykc7N-aU

Part 5
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0QZG9nSYIQ

Done a bit more since my last post... I have removed the front wings and doors and now ready to think about engine bay work before removing engine/gbox.

I may also have sourced a good S3 chassis and 2.25N motor (prefer diesels :)) - so this will be the donor, or rather ill build from that rolling chassis.

I am also cleaning up the dash gauges and managed to test the fuel level gauge with the tank float. It works! However the needle is not in correct position so I will be adjusting the gauge (the two nuts at the back) so that it reads Empty and Full correctly. Of course more vids to come on this work.

I have managed to source a S3 chassis in very good condition and it comes with a 2.25 diesel motor. I will end up using the diesel (my preference) so thinking that I will wire up the glow plugs using a different switch that returns to the off when released.

Is there anything I need to look at re the motor? Apparently it turns (so not seized) but not much else known about the condition. So question is, what can I look for to determine if I can try starting as is or just wait until a strip down?

Eg - check the glow plugs, check/change oil, check valve gaps. However unless I can test the compression, theres no real way of knowing the internal condition without the head off, right?

If I am right, you are planning to fit the S2a body to the S3 chassis. You need to be aware that this may make the vehicle impossible to register. This is because the chassis is the 'identity' of the vehicle, and there are almost certainly some ADRs that the S2a body does not meet, but were required for the S3. These include things like padded dash, flush door hinges, wide set headlights, that are difficult to fit to the S2a body. Exactly what is required will depend on the date of the chassis.

Checking the diesel engine - if you can source a crankhandle, turning it over by hand will give a fair idea of condition of rings at least. It should be just possible to turn over compression if you are fairly strong, and all four should be about the same.

If considering starting it as is, change the oil, and check for coolant as a minimum. Might be worth pulling the heater plugs and check that they all look the same colour etc.

But I would be inclined to pull the head and sump for examination. One of the most likely issues with this engine is to have dropped one or more precombustion chambers, which is unlikely to be able to be diagnosed without removing the head. Dropping the sump is quite easy and a pulling one bigend cap would give a good idea of the state of the bottom end.