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Thread: Brake Drums

  1. #1
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    Brake Drums

    I recently tried to take the drum brakes off of mt relatively new purchased old car. I slackened off the 2 adjuster nuts so that the drum wheeled freely, but had to 'coax' the drum off with the aid of a soft mallet !! I then tried the others but they simply wouldn't budge, despite some several thwacks ! Obviously I had taken the brake drum screws out.

    Is there something I am missing, (have followed the Haynes manual). I have read in various threads of people having to remove them with drastic measures.

    Cheers
    Paul

  2. #2
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    Wear in the drums leaves a lip and if the slave cylinder is seized you will struggle to remove the drum.
    Drastic measures are sometimes needed to remove them.
    There should be a tapped hole (5/16" Whitworth from memory or maybe 3/8"). Screwing a bolt into this and carefully tightening while tapping the outside with a hide mallet might get it to surrender. Don't tighten too much if it's not moving because you'll break a section out of the drum.



    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
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  3. #3
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    Thanks Colin will give it a go.

  4. #4
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    As Colin says. If it is not moving at all, it will be gripping on the centre of the drum or the studs - a bit of penetrating oil on these overnight is likely to help.

    Much more of a problem is if you can get it to turn freely, loosen it on the hub, but can't get it past the brake shoes. Usually perseverance wins in the end though. Although I have never been there, I can envision cases where it is necessary to break or cut the drum to get it off. Sometimes it has looked like I was going to end up there, but I have always won in the end (so far).

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #5
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    The thread size is 3/8"Whitworth, cheers Dennis
    sometimes you can get a small amount of lee-way by undoing the 2 nuts that hold the slave cylinder in place, you will need a good fitting 1/2"AF spanner for the task, and don't be afraid to use to use a copper mallet on the drum,, cheers n good luck

  6. #6
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    You first need ti back the adjusters off fully.
    If the brake drum has rusted it self to the axle flange spray some WD40 around the join then after it has soaked for a while give the drum a good solid hit with a rubber mallet around the were the arrow is pointing . This will cause the drum to tilt & usually brakes the seal.th_LI.jpg You need to hit out side the diameter of the axel flange, you should than be able work the drum out with a couple of large screw drivers.

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