Thanks for this info John.
Im thinking that the "spring looking" clip on top could actually cause a leak inadvertently, or designed to be like a relief valve in itself, because if it were to be screwed together, there'd be no way anything could escape, whereas with the clip, it could "let go" itself(??). Am I right in thought here?
Is the diaphragm an item that can be bought do you know?
I think my last one came from All 4 x Four in Newcastle, and was only a few dollars. The spring clip is just a simple way of holding it together - the pressure seals the edge of the diaphragm - there is a hole in the plate to let air behind the diaphragm. The way it works is a small spring keeps the valve open when the throttle is open and there is low vacuum, so that there is a steady flow of oily air into the intake manifold through a metering aperture leading to the oil filler tube via a pipe. This flow is very small compared to the volume of mixture coming from the carburettor, and so makes no appreciable difference to the mixture.
When the throttle is closed, and the vacuum increases, the aperture restricts the airflow flow, and the air pressure on the diaphragm pushes it down and closes the valve so as not to upset the idling mixture.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Had a win yesterday with the dash lights and wipers
It seems it was just dirty connectors. Have taken nearly all of them off and sort of re-seated them, and now I have them all working. Although they are not very bright,,, (there's an opening there for someone),, although until I use them in the dark, I wont really know, but I may try and put in slightly higher globes to help with that at a later date, but for now, it should be good enough.
So, today's job, move the boat and camper so I can get the car into the back yard and do some degreasing.
haha,,, no time for Nanna Naps just yet,, although I reckon I could sleep for a week, if the cats would allow it
Stock Take's over now, but still plenty of OT so as we can catch up to where we should be
Yeah, I did wonder about LED's, but think that might make it "too bright", might ask the question if anyone's got them though and see if I can see what they look like. I'm not to sure I'm overly worried about being really bright and clear, I doubt I'll be doing any real driving at night, and although I can't see speed as an issue, it would be good to be able to keep an eye on temps etc I suppose.
So, trailers are moved/repositioned, lawns are mowed, I've just fed and watered myself,, now to reinstall the dash (4 screws) and take her out for a clean
hmmm,, there's a fishing show on TV![]()
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Well, this mornings efforts were a bit disappointing.
Was inspecting the radiator which has had me worried a bit about it's quality. There's some rust stains around the top specifically, looking like it's maybe just lost a bit out the cap maybe, but it seems it would be more beneficial to remove it and have it refurbished. There looks to be some weeping along one of the top seams that I can see quite easily, and also something running down one of the sides. The bracket that folds over the corner at the end has lifted as well. It's been a long time since I've done any brazing at all, and I don't have any gear for it now either.
Just to be safe, I'll have it fixed I think. So off to find someone who will look after it for me. Was hoping to get a roadie done this week, but not looking like that will happen now
So, another issue I seem to have is the brakes. Everything looks to be in good nick, and they certainly work. However, when parked and then starting to move off, you can feel them grabbing, squealing as you move off, taking a bit to "get rolling". So after a quick spin last weekend, I felt the rear left grab/lock/skid as I pulled up. Hmm,, adjustment issues maybe. So today, up with the back end and check the left,,, nothing, seems to be pretty much spot on. So, now check the R/R and see how that is,, maybe I got it wrong on which side I thought the locking was on. On lifting up that side, I can't move the wheel at all. So, moved the car, "after backing the R/R off, just to be certain, squealing grabbing, same deal as before. So I get the car over to the side of the garage more so I can take the wheel off and pull the drum etc off, jack her up remove said wheel and drum, and all's good. It does feel a little tight in spots, like it's trying to bind up, but I'm afraid I'm a little lost. I'll leave this for Greg at AMV (roadie) to deal with I think.
As an aside to the brake issue, I've discovered that one of the studs have a seized nut (R/R), thereby the whole stud comes out, so I'll soak that in a bit of turps at work and reseat the stud later.
Also whist giving it a once over, I noticed this bottom hose. I don't think the pic shows it very well, but how its even hanging on, let alone holding water is beyond me. Also spotted some rust on the framework of the bonnet that I didn't really see earlier, so toying with how I will fix that. I could probably do it in situate, but not sure with the alloy lid so close. So I may just end up bracing it for the roadie, if they pick on it, then afterwards, remove and do it the right way. Not sure if framework for the bonnet is available at all, but it shouldn't be hard to get some steel folded up and sort it out.
Also wanted to do a good clean around the gearbox and under the motor etc today. This would be easy with removal of the tunnel cover to get to it all, but alas, when someone has replaced the floor pan sheets, they've used silicone to do it,, as well as the usual screws. On the up side of this issue, is that after crawling around underneath today with a light to see whats what, although there's a lot of crappy oily grime under there, it actually doesn't look like it's leaking all that much. There's wetness there for sure, but it looks more like the filler plug washers have maybe let go, or just been damaged/worn. So I'll possibly leave this and see what Greg says about it when I get it to him.
I also had a bit of a hard time starting her this morning, not sure how the timing is at the moment, or plugs, points etc, so I'll be having a look at that soon. Not sure if I still have a working timing light, so maybe just by ear will have to do, (this'll be interesting) but it actually sounds pretty good when running.
One last thing I found was I think its had a heater fitted at some point. There looks to be holes for one, which have been used, and in its little box of goodies that are in the back of the car, I found what I think may be the old switch for said heater and a heater tap (?). Might have to find myself one, although there are a few options on flebay for smallish aftermarket heaters which are really cheap too. They may not look period, as in the round version, but being steel and spot welded together etc, it'll probably look ok. More importantly, it'll help keep SWMBO warm----ish,, and thats always a good thing
Very fragile looking radiator hose.
DSCF8349.jpg
Markus,
Radiator - I have a low pressure gauge & adaptor that you can use to pressure test the radiator. As you suggest it could be the cap leaking that puts the stains all over the rad. Expensive hobby getting them cleaned & re-soldered and not sure if they will just carry out a repair.
Brake wheel cylinders - Are you sure the pistons are 'free', maybe they are sticking or seized. Cheap enough to get overhaul kits as long as the bores are OK.
Heater - There will be plenty of heat coming through the floor, from the engine/gearbox/exhaust !
Bonnet - Once I get the one painted for the SIII shorty I'll have a spare one you can use while you work on yours. Similar rust problems to yours but fairly strong. If I look down the back shed I may even have a spare you could use for the roady.
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
The two hubs I've taken off Colin, everything looks to be in really good nick. She also has newish flex lines at each corner. He didn't say the brakes had not long been done or anything, but it all looks good, no leaks as such I can see, which I'm guessing would be a fair indication of them not working right. However, I'm thinking I might just kit them all anyway. Maybe I'll try a flush first and see how that goes.
In concern with the radiator, I'll Msg you, but yeah, I'll take you up on the offer of the test gauge thanks.
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