Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 16

Thread: Repairing Missing Wheel Stud on IIA

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Bathurst NSW
    Posts
    32
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Repairing Missing Wheel Stud on IIA

    Hi, I was hoping for some confirmation on a fix for a missing wheel stud.

    I have what seems to be an early IIA that was a shooting ute for a while before I got it. So I've been finding a few things that have been mostly caused by a lack of maintenance that need to be fixed before rego.

    One of the first things I did was take the wheels off. This was quite hard and needed a fair going with the rattle gun and penetrating oil to get the wheel nuts off. Unfortunately one of them didn't actually come loose from the nut. The stud unthreaded from the hub. I figured that wouldn't be too much of a problem because I can order new studs. When I got the new one I discovered that because the studs get peened out on the backside it seems to have stripped most of the thread from the hole in the hub.

    What I'm thinking is if I use one of the newer studs that are a splined press fit into the hub, smear a dab of grease into the splines, put the wheel on, put some grease on the nut and run it down with the rattle gun until the stud has been pulled into place.

    Does this sound like a reasonable way to go about this? I don't have a press and I'd like to avoid having to pull the hub off. Although I could do it after having stripped the front axle to the diff while I was replacing the swivel ball seals.

    Thanks,
    Rex

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,796
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by rexhunt View Post

    What I'm thinking is if I use one of the newer studs that are a splined press fit into the hub, smear a dab of grease into the splines, put the wheel on, put some grease on the nut and run it down with the rattle gun until the stud has been pulled into place.
    You'd have to drill out to match the size used for the splined section to pull into but there are other issues.
    The stud length varies depending on whether the nuts are double sided (chamfer both sides) or not so you might find the thread exposed ends up too short depending on what wheelnuts are fitted.
    There is also a recess that the splined type fit into, without this the stud exposed will be shorter still.....

    Just recently found a 9/16" BSF tap to clean out nuts and the hub. As you've found though, it just depends how much damage is done as the stud unthreads.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Bathurst NSW
    Posts
    32
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Unfortunately the old threads got torn out. The replacement stud can be pushed through the hole without actually turning so there's nothing left for a tap to work with.

    I'll have to have a look at the lengths. I don't remember noticing a significant length difference, but I haven't put the splined stud against anything.

    How big would the hole be around the splined section? I wouldn't have thought that it would be much more than the body of the stud. There needs to be some interference between the hub and the splines for these to hold doesn't there?

    Cheers,
    Rex

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bunbury, WA
    Posts
    2,507
    Total Downloaded
    0
    They have been fixed with a dob of weld on the inside many a time..... 🤔

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,796
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by rexhunt View Post

    How big would the hole be around the splined section? I wouldn't have thought that it would be much more than the body of the stud. There needs to be some interference between the hub and the splines for these to hold doesn't there?
    A bit more than the measurement at the base of the splines. I had a hub with the press in studs removed but only a few weeks ago pressed in new studs so I don't have anything to measure unfortunately.

    As cjc_td5 mentioned welding is a possibility if you remove the hub. The only issue is that you are joining steel & cast iron.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  6. #6
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,515
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The other possibility would be to ream or drill the hole to take a wheel nut turned down and with a flange left for the inside and with a slot to spread the standard stud. The hole and the diameter of the turned down nut should be an interference fit, and the nut pressed in, or it could be pulled in by the stud and nut. Easier if left in the freezer for a couple of hours.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Blair Athol, Adelaide South Aust.
    Posts
    2,745
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Ive got four spare s2a hubs here three of which have good studs and one that has been repaired sometime in the past but is still good. All 4 hubs have near new surplus ex military bearings fitted as well. Pm if u need any.

    Cheers Rod

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    McMinns Lagoon NT
    Posts
    13
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Didn't read half of what was said, but my series 2A had a missing / broken stud and a loose one so I just welded the loose one on and glues a nut with some masking tape packed inside of it with some body tar orotund the outside to get it past rego :'D

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,495
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Find out the Root Diameter of a replacement stud.
    drill to that size.
    insert the stud
    place a suitable washer over the stud
    put a flat nut on
    wind it in with that, dont use a wheel nut. use a wheel nut on backwards if you have to..

    Dont pull it in with the taper side. (dont ask) (ok bad things busted nut and cracked a hub)
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Bathurst NSW
    Posts
    32
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Sorted

    Finally got a chance to finish this off. One of the wheel nuts on another wheel was flat on one side so I used that to draw the new stud in. Taking the old stud out had reamed most of the hole to the point where I just gave it a hit with a round file to have a nice fit up to the splines.

    The new stud fitted in from the back without having to remove anything too dramatic, only the brake drum. Add some grease to the splines put 2 greased washers on the outside and snug it up with the rattle gun. Pulled the stud in nicely. Wheel is back on and the car is now out on the farm so after a few laps it hasn't fallen off so I'll call it a good job.

    I grabbed a pic or 2. Will get them out of my phone and post here if anyone is interested.

    Cheers,
    Rex

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!