Thread: Gear Selection Issue

did you adjust the pedal mechanism to specs?

Incisor - yep, at the time Homestar any myself measured it, adjusted it, tested it and drove the vehicle... So I am reasonably confident that it is to spec...

I had to rebuild the pivot on mine as it measured up well but was hopeless in day to day use

I have the same issue in my '63 2a. Will only go in to a forward gear if reverse is carefully selected or started in gear. This has only recently started. 3rd can be difficult when shifting up sometimes, though this could be me, don't get to drive her much.

The clutch is adjusted to spec and is working fine - I'm pretty sure it's a gearbox issue, but not sure exactly what. All gears work fine whenever the box allows a gear to be selected. Clutch isn't dragging as if you select a gear, clutch in and start it everything is fine and it doesn't creep or effect engine revs when back in neutral.

When working, everything drives fine and the clutch picks up mid travel as you'd expect. Everything is new in the clutch assembly too - including sleeve and pin so actuation is very good, not like it was when it arrived with a bolt in there and chewed out - and it still worked ok even then.

Thinking something to do with the selector or lockout mechanism, but I've yet to work seriously on one of these boxes so my knowledge stops there.

GG - don't let the mechanic go too far with it, I would think as you've discussed with me that he wants to pull the box out but I don't think that's a good starting point. I feel it works ok with the floor out, either ask him to adjust the pedal or to drive it back to your place.

Hi All,

I thought that I should update this thread... I believe that the issue is fixed - although I haven't taken the car on a long drive yet.

The car has been at the local mechanics for weeks - and he rang me on Friday to report that the issue is fixed... Here is what he did:

* Checked the adjustment of the actual pedal - which was fine.
* Bled the system - which was fine.
* Checked the adjustment on the master cylinder - which was fine.
* Checked the adjustment on the slave cylinder - which was fine.

When we rebuilt the car - it was all new parts (clutch, slave cylinder, master cylinder, lines, etc).

The fix was - he tightened each of the clutch forks "one complete turn"... He said that he "had never had to do this with a new clutch" - but it was a trick that he had used in the past when clutch plates get worn..
He went on to say "that's what was weird - we had hydraulic pressure, but the forks weren't engaging the plate enough"..

Anyway - I've driven the car around the block a few times, and it now seems fine. (It now needs a wash, a few drives, and then a check over)

IMG_1850 by Grey Ghost, on Flickr

Cheers,
GG.

Well that's a new one - it has me stuffed and I've been over what we did on assembly a dozen times in my head and couldn't work out what I'd done wrong - I don't feel so bad now.

Hi Gav - when we fitted the clutch (oh so long ago) - I certainly didn't even think of checking the nuts on the clutch forks.. Perhaps they were on finger tight (from the manufacturer) and that explains why it drove for a little while before having the issue... It's certainly a strange one - hence another reason why I posted up the "fix" - just in case anybody else ever has this strange issue..