Thread: ENV axle - shaft - driving flange/member how to ?

May be a problem getting advice here - the One Ton was never sold in Australia. But there are a few Series 2B with ENV axles I believe, so hopefully someone with knowledge on these will come along - "Lotz-a-landys" perhaps.

John

The drive flange is basically the same as a Rover one. It just slips on to the splines.
You should be able to find a way to hold the flange either vertically in a press or horizontally using a 3 legged puller and apply pressure to the axle.
It should come off.
I dont have ENV,s on mine any more. Swapped them out for Salisbury. The weak point is the inner pinion bearing housing in the diff. I broke mine. Its very thin.

Keith

Did you say the wheel bearings were ok? Possibly the wheel bearing momentarily failed? Or a differential side gear? That could cause the axle to twist in the flange due to the sudden load while the vehicle was moving at speed.

One way to remove the driving flange when it's tight is to get a length of pipe with the internal diameter close to but larger than the ENV spline, the pipe should be at longer than the total overall length of the axle and flange plus a little extra for packing.

Stuff one end of the pipe with a rag or something like bubble wrap (this is to protect the spline).

Hold the pipe with the stuffing end down, slip the axle halfshaft into the pipe so the flange rests on the end. Holding the pipe and axle vertically a few inches above a hard surface on the ground, hardwood is good, then drop the pipe to the ground making sure you catch it as it hits and repeat until the flange comes off.

You can also use the same pipe assembly, hold the pipe with the stuffed end on your hardwood block but drop the axle halfshaft into the pipe. In both methods it is the momentum and mass of the halfshaft assembly that are doing the work.

Remember High Tough axles in Qld can manufacture replacement ENV axles.

Originally Posted by justinc

Did you say the wheel bearings were ok? Possibly the wheel bearing momentarily failed? Or a differential side gear? That could cause the axle to twist in the flange due to the sudden load while the vehicle was moving at speed.

ENV axles have splines at the diff end that have a larger diameter than the hole in the stub axle. The result is that you have to remove the stub axle from the diff/axle housing and pull out the halfshaft from the back of the stub axle. This requires the flange to be removed first.

Thank you, really appreciated.

Then I know it is supposed to come off, it is just a matter of violence and raw power.

Hi again,

Finally the parts came apart, but look at this hole in the hub. I suppose it is not supposed to be there.
What do you think, could this cause the lockup of the wheel ?

Everything else seems to be ok...

IMG_2171.jpg

IMG_2170.jpg

It seems one of the drive flange stud holes is a bit deep - or the inner bearing has spun in the hub and worn through to it. Either way, it cannot have caused the lockup, although if the bearing has spun in the hub, it will be because the bearing has locked, and this will have caused the lockup, either directly or because the wobble on the bearing applied the brake. I would carefully check that the hub bearing seat is not worn before reusing it - make sure that the bearing cup seats firmly and straight in the hub, or replace the hub.