Having looked up online radiators, I'm wondering which is best,,, alloy core or copper core?
Even though I've had mine refurbished, there still seems to be a leak, although I have not been able to pressure test it yet, so unsure of the actual cause, but I may need to get a new one.
Obviously I would prefer original, but maybe for our heat here, an alloy one could be better (??).
All experience/guidance appreciated.
Cheers Chops
Sorry, copper has almost double the thermal conductivity of aluminium - ~400 compared to 237 ((for practical alloys around 100) W/mK. The major reasons for using aluminium are weight and cost. For effectiveness the only things better than copper are probably gold or possibly silver!
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Sorry Chops I got that round the wrong way (can't believe I posted that without proof reading it first...!)
Yes, John is correct, and what I meant to say was the thermal conductivity of copper is far better than aluminium, but cost of unit item is more excessive with copper as John has also stated due to raw materials cost.
Cheers,
Tricky
Last edited by Archangel007; 11th December 2017 at 06:58 AM. Reason: spelling
Why does aluminium conduct heat away much faster than copper then ??
Heat up an aluminium tube to 150c and its cool to touch in about 30 seconds, Heat up a copper pipe and it will burn you minutes later.
All I know is the new alloy core radiator cooled my Series 3 waaaay better than either on my copper core radiators
( granted not a fair comparison because one was blocked and one had a leak)
The trouble with a lot of the brass radiators we get now is they are made from recycled metals and have impurities in them which are more prone to corroding.
Also the tanks seem to eventually develop leaks due to fine cracks on corners where they are stamped out.
If you can source a reasonable old original and get a good repair job, I reckon it's the best way to go.
They shouldn't run hot if the system is clean and everything is functioning properly, ie. water pump, correct thermostat, cowling, cap, etc..
Maybe a good quality anti freeze, anti boil too coolant too.
The local radiator repair guy told me an aluminium radiator is approx. 25% better at dispersing heat, so is this incorrect?
Cheers, Mick.
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
As above - Series Landrovers are not prone to overheating unless there is something wrong or when used at high power when stationary or or moving slowly in very hot weather. Even heavy pulling in loose sand in desert conditions should not result in overheating, in my experience.
The "something wrong" will be usually one (or more) of:-
Shroud missing; radiator blocked either internally or externally; coolant leak; slipping fanbelt; spark retarded or advance not working; incorrect valve timing; pressure not maintained, although normal operating temperature is below boiling at STP, this will result in coolant loss; rarely a faulty or missing thermostat; collapsed radiator hose.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Flat topped radiators tend to last longer if you don't sit or lean on them while working in the engine bay.
.W.
Thanks guys, looks like I've got some investigating to do very soon.
Right now as it stands, I'm not overly happy to drive her up to Corowa, let alone Cooma the week afterSo I'd best get her sorted.
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