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Thread: Air vent trimming

  1. #1
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    Air vent trimming

    I did some research and thought that I bought soft rubber for the front air vent seal, but....... the buggers still don’t close properly. I’m anxious about breaking the internal vent control knobs with the force needed to almost close them.
    I’ve tried a few tricks but now wonder if filing 1 or 2 mm off the leading (top) edge will permit easier closing and better sealing all around.
    Any comments?
    Mustlust

    1950 Series 1 80in lights behind grill
    1950 Series 1 80in rolling chassis looking for a body
    1956 Series 1 86in
    1956 Series 1 107
    1957 Series 1 88in
    1967 Mustang coupe 347 stroker
    2011 Discovery 4 3.0
    2009 110 utility 2.4tdci

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    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    The best seals are ones that are hollow. I haven't bought any for a long time, so I don't know what is available.

    The problem you would appear to have is either the seal is too thick and inflexible, or the hinge needs bending, so that the top is not pulled in as far - this may or may not be possible, depending on the thickness of the seal. The earlier flaps with the detachable hinge are easier to bend the hinges on.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mustlust View Post
    I did some research and thought that I bought soft rubber for the front air vent seal, but....... the buggers still don’t close properly. I’m anxious about breaking the internal vent control knobs with the force needed to almost close them.
    I’ve tried a few tricks but now wonder if filing 1 or 2 mm off the leading (top) edge will permit easier closing and better sealing all around.
    Any comments?
    I had the same problem basically the seals were a waste of money".......Mine were advertised as genuine seals and were correct shape but vent wouldn't close
    Ive done some 200miles with no seals and don't really see the need for them......but mine is a dry weather car having no roof at present......but when washing car no water seems to get thru vents

    Cheers Paul

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    Perhaps some rubber tube instead, maybe Clarke Rubber can help. I too have new seals to go in, so good to know they're no good.

    Cheers
    John

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mustlust View Post
    I did some research and thought that I bought soft rubber for the front air vent seal, but....... the buggers still don’t close properly. I’m anxious about breaking the internal vent control knobs with the force needed to almost close them.
    I’ve tried a few tricks but now wonder if filing 1 or 2 mm off the leading (top) edge will permit easier closing and better sealing all around.
    Any comments?
    If the rubber seal is the problem why would you file the vent down ? Sounds like you need to find an alternative rubber sealing material.

    The original was a moulded profile.


    A few companies have sold a stick on version that sticks to the vent. Looked more like a sponge rubber than moulded rubber


    I have some aftermarket moulded seals here but I'm not in a position to fit them at the moment. From reading others experiences you maybe need some external force to get it to close initially but over time the seal deforms and becomes easier to close against.

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  6. #6
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    The ones in the bottom picture look more like Series 1 seals.
    .W.

  7. #7
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    The Gold Coast can be quite wet at times and I need the vents to be properly operable. The seal I have was spruiked as original and the better of several branded options. When first installed I clamped up the flap and left it closed for 2 months (at least) to make an impression on the rubber, but this didn’t help much.

    I will try to coerce the hinge to give me a mm or so.
    Mustlust

    1950 Series 1 80in lights behind grill
    1950 Series 1 80in rolling chassis looking for a body
    1956 Series 1 86in
    1956 Series 1 107
    1957 Series 1 88in
    1967 Mustang coupe 347 stroker
    2011 Discovery 4 3.0
    2009 110 utility 2.4tdci

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mustlust View Post
    The Gold Coast can be quite wet at times and I need the vents to be properly operable. The seal I have was spruiked as original and the better of several branded options. When first installed I clamped up the flap and left it closed for 2 months (at least) to make an impression on the rubber, but this didn’t help much.

    I will try to coerce the hinge to give me a mm or so.
    Here is an article from the UK regarding fitting Series seals to a Defender. They mention leaving the vent closed for 4 months to get the rubber to 'comply' ! If you can get some movement from the hinges as you suggest it might help.
    Vent Seal Replacement - Stock to Series step by step - Defender Source


    Quote Originally Posted by B.S.F. View Post
    The ones in the bottom picture look more like Series 1 seals.
    .W.
    Listed as Defender seals that stick on the inside of the vent. Local LR supplier was selling these for some time as replacement for SII & SIII, probably because of the problems fitting the standard seals.......


    As for Original, Genuine, OEM, OEM supplier etc etc. .......What do the manufacturers actually mean ??
    When did Land Rover stop Series III production ? Are they suggesting that the 'original suppliers' are still making parts for the spares market ?

    Genuine/Original
    They are 'genuine' type i.e. look like the original but probably inferior materials and incorrect dimensions.

    OEM/OEM supplier
    The company that makes them are an OEM supplier to some car manufacturer somewhere in the World (but not Land Rover). Again possibly inferior materials and dimensions a bit hit & miss.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  9. #9
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    Does anyone else have banana shape vent flaps?
    I bent the hinge which helps a little, but surface contact is all over the place. Looks like I’ll have to un-banana the vent piece.
    Mustlust

    1950 Series 1 80in lights behind grill
    1950 Series 1 80in rolling chassis looking for a body
    1956 Series 1 86in
    1956 Series 1 107
    1957 Series 1 88in
    1967 Mustang coupe 347 stroker
    2011 Discovery 4 3.0
    2009 110 utility 2.4tdci

  10. #10
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    I expect that I am basically echoing others, but I used self-adhesive hollow seals with a semi-circular cross section. Instead of putting them on the firewall, I attached them to the inner surface of the vents. The stuff is available by the metre at Clark Rubber and it worked a treat.

    John

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