Thread: Sydney Series Owner; Electrickery question.

actually, a 186's torque peak is at 1600 RPM, which is excellent for a 4WD. This is the reason my uncle swapped his 4cyl out over 25 years ago in his Series 3. He already had a Fairy O/D fitted, which helped with the reduced rev range of the Holden donk.
Obviously the thing was better at the traffic lights than with the 4, although you had to watch those rear axles (he only ever broke one !)

The 4cyl was an excellent engine, after he threw away the stock exhaust and manifold and fitted a set of Perry extractors and a 2" exhaust and played around with the carby. He could get a 140km/h (indicated) out of it ! (we were following him one night down the F5 in one of Dad's then Holden panel vans. Dad bailed at 140 km/h indicated and the Landy was pulling away !)

We were really surprised when he ditched the Landy engine for the Holden, as the 4cyl went so well, but he was one who liked to fiddle, and had a stack of Hoilden bits and pieces, and a few engines, hanging around.

Originally posted by rick130


The 4cyl was an excellent engine, after he threw away the stock exhaust and manifold and fitted a set of Perry extractors and a 2" exhaust and played around with the carby. He could get a 140km/h (indicated) out of it ! (we were following him one night down the F5 in one of Dad's then Holden panel vans. Dad bailed at 140 km/h indicated and the Landy was pulling away !)

I'll second that. A reasonbly fresh 2.25 and a set of extractors can perform surprisingly well. I had one with a holden stromberg carb (must use an adjustable main jet) and it was great.

The spring bushes can try your patience but it is possible. Cut of the bent shackle, drill all around the old rubber between the two sleeves and keep at it. Once you get the center sleeve out, start carefully cutting slots in the outer one being careful not to go into the chassis and then drive the cut bits out. Put your hacksaw blades through the hole. It took me about an afternoon after work for the first one and then it got quicker as things usually do.

If the will is there, you can do it on your own. I stripped and galvanised my chassis and firewall by myself. I'd suggest using clear ziplock snandwich bags for all nuts and bolts and small parts from each section.
Makes reassembly a lot less formidable.

Definitly buy a complete loom - it will be a lot cheaper than getting a sparky to build you one and will finish off the vehicle properly. I was lucky enough to get a brand army surplus series 2A loom for only $60 from FWD motors in Brisbane. That was about 5 years ago now but it doesnt hurt to call..........

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>The spring bushes can try your patience but it is possible. Cut of the bent shackle, drill all around the old rubber between the two sleeves and keep at it. Once you get the center sleeve out, start carefully cutting slots in the outer one being careful not to go into the chassis and then drive the cut bits out. Put your hacksaw blades through the hole. It took me about an afternoon after work for the first one and then it got quicker as things usually do.[/b][/quote]

Actually I am cool with doing all of the above but the issue is that I can't remove the shackles because the shackle pin itself is bent as well as fused to the bushes. The only solution I have ever seen to this is to have the pin burn't out with a blow torch ... which I have no experience in using personally. If I could get the shackles off and get to the pins I'd have no problem using elbow grease drilling and chiselling the rest out as suggested.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'> I'd suggest using clear ziplock snandwich bags for all nuts and bolts and small parts from each section. Makes reassembly a lot less formidable.[/b][/quote]

Actually, that's exactly what I did when I stripped everything down to the rolling chassis. I'm ending up with ALLOT of bags.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Definitly buy a complete loom - it will be a lot cheaper than getting a sparky to build you one and will finish off the vehicle properly. I was lucky enough to get a brand army surplus series 2A loom for only $60 from FWD motors in Brisbane. That was about 5 years ago now but it doesnt hurt to call..........[/b][/quote]

I'm not familiar with Brizzie 4wd's ... do you have any contact details?

Hi Simon
You just need to spend a little more time on it,then the bug will bite 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
Ive had the pleasure of removing the chassis bushes on a couple,one with the bolt fused as yours is.
I drilled as mutch rubber out as possible then a heavy hammer breaks the left over rubber.
To get the steel part out of the chassis I get a piece of steel and weld it inside the bush then whilst its still hot lay into it with a drift and that heavy hammer,a couple of hits and it usually moves.
When re-fiting the new bushes,use originals,poly bushes dont last at all in series landies.Coat the new ones with coppercote grease,next time you need to replace them they will come out easier.
All the best
Andrew

Hey Andy.

Thanks mate, as I said before the problm is I can't get the shackle plates off because the shackle pin bolt is actually bent and fused and won't allow me to get at the bushes at all. It seems to me right now that I can't attack the bushes until I can get the shackles off ... therein lies my problem. Beyond that I have no experience in welding so my troubles remain in the meantime in any case due to the stuck shackles. I have always had every intention of refitting standard bushes ... with lashings of copper grease!!!

I may have to butcher the shackles ... not sure how to go about it though as I want to be careful not to damage the spring hangers. I have good experience with the angle grinder, that's for sure.

I have been there - last week, replacing the spring on a Landrover based farm trailer. I found that it was possible to get a cutting wheel between the shackle plate and the chassis and cut off the shackle pin. (If necessary cut into the shackle plate rather than the chassis or spring - they are not that expensive, and if only slightly damaged you can turn them round and use the other side. Also, you should be able to wedge the whole assembly to each side in succession to make a little bit more room.) Once you have done this you can drill out the rubber bit by bit and then cut through the outer sleeve with a hacksaw and remove it with a suitable cold chisel or punch. It can also be removed using a suitable sized socket, a long 1/2" bolt or threaded rod, a tube and an assortment of washers, but this won't work if it is rusted in unless you put a cut in it.