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Thread: My little Series 2

  1. #101
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    The dropping idle and stall is probably the rich running - mixture suits the cold engine, but is too rich when the engine is warm. If adjusting idling mixture does not fix it, then it is probably a carburettor issue. I don't remember what carbie you have, but with the Zenith this is usually the O-ring not sealing perfectly. There is a slight possibility that it is something else, such as a heat sensitive part of the ignition system, or that the engine is actually overheating.

    The base of the carburettor will normally get cold - evaporating petrol takes heat. Nothing to worry about until you get ice build up internally - never heard of that happening in this engine. That is why the exhaust manifold is attached to the inlet manifold. Early exhaust manifolds had a thermostat controlled deflector that adjusted the amount of heat, but later ones dropped this. Probably reduces maximum power slightly.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  2. #102
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    JDNSW - It's a Zenith Carby (new).

    I have some gaskets and o-rings on the way, so i'll replace what I can and see what happens.
    1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
    1963 LWB Series 2a UTE

  3. #103
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    Spent some time on the Carby on the weekend.

    Removed the carby, gaskets and the black block (by remove i mean broke away, very brittle). The think round metal on the intake manifold was quite bent (see pic). I've reshaped it as I think it might have been fouling the bottom of the carby. Fitted the new block and gaskets.

    20190728_142753.jpg 20190728_152212.jpg 20190728_152219.jpg

    Ran the car for a bit and while i need to adjust the idle and mix, it didn't stall once warm as it has been. Still a lot of black smoke, but some adjustment and/or checking the plugs might fix that.

    Also fitted one of the new shocks (3 more to go!!)

    20190728_152155.jpg

    I've noticed that there is a constant drip of oil from possibly the transfer case. I've not added oil to the gearbox or transfer case. My thoughts are that it might be oil flowing into the case from the gearbox.

    If it is I have a couple of choices:

    - Repair in situ
    - Pull out the transfer case and repair
    - or re-build the pare one and swap

    Any thought?
    1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
    1963 LWB Series 2a UTE

  4. #104
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Black smoke is unlikely to be fixed by plugs - it is unburnt fuel, usually excessively rich mixture. With the Zenith, mostly leaking O-ring.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #105
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    JDNSW - are you talking about the o-ring inside the carby?

    Managed to steal away an hour tonight and did a compression test, here are the results:


    Cylinder 1 - 110 dry / 120 wet
    Cylinder 2 - 100 dry / 105 wet
    Cylinder 3 - 100 dry / 110 wet
    Cylinder 4 - 120 dry / 145 wet

    How do they look? Is the variation OK?
    1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
    1963 LWB Series 2a UTE

  6. #106
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Yes. It is in a high vacuum area when the throttle is closed. They will leak if the top is warped, if there is any foreign material on the seat, if the O-ring has gone hard, if the heads on the screws holding the emulsion block are burred or the wrong ones, if the wrong washers are under these screws, or simply if it wants to be contrary!
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by tibbsy View Post
    JDNSW - are you talking about the o-ring inside the carby?
    I just went through a similar issue with my 2A, it has the Zenith 316V Carby.
    I was driving it when it seemed to run low on power like it was starving for juice, so i pulled the choke out and it ran better
    and well enough to get me the few kays needed to get home. It obviously swallowed whatever was causing the issue and
    blocking the jet, however after this it started running very rich, especially at idle, looked like a diesel it was putting out that
    much black smoke. On dismantling the carby i found the large o-ring was perished and brittle, but that was fair enough,
    it was probably original and almost fifty years old.
    I put a kit through it, but still no change, so i honed the mating surfaces on a sheet of emery/glass, this improved it, but it was
    still running far too rich, and on inspection, looking down the throat of the carby whilst it was idling, i could see fuel leaking around
    the join in the throat where the large o-ring seals. After several more attempts at fixing the issue i decided the almost fifty year
    old carby was cactus.
    There are a lot of series Land Rovers out there that have been fitted with a Stromberg carby from a Holden engine, and i assume
    this is the reason why.

    I ended up purchasing a new Zenith 316V copy, and although better, i am not completely happy with it's performance.
    It does not run as well or give as good a fuel economy as the vehicle did with the original Zenith it failed.

    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  8. #108
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    Thanks guys!

    Mine is a new Zenith copy, although has sat around to 18 months - 24 months. I have a rebuild kit, so i'll pull the Carby off and put the rebuild kit through it.

    I'll keep you updated!
    1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
    1963 LWB Series 2a UTE

  9. #109
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    Very Interested in how this all turns out, I also have a Zenith copy that arrived in a blue box 2 years ago. At present it hasn't left the box as my Stromberg seems OK

    Cheers Paul

  10. #110
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    I replaced my original with a copy several years ago, and had a lot of trouble with it, but eventually got it going well. I tried all sorts of things, but I am convinced that the issue is almost always the O-ring seal. When reassembling it, tighten the two screws that are compressing the O-ring evenly half a turn at a time - the ones on the other side of the reservoir are less important, but do the same with them, just to be safe. Also, when putting the O-ring on, be careful not to get it twisted.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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