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From an academic point of view, the winders are better (in the sense of being better engineered) than the later levers - until you have to close them in a hurry on a dusty road when a vehicle appears going the other way!Quote:
Originally Posted by OneOff
Awesome looking little rig.
Looking in the engine bay there's a 240V outlet plug, an old bakelite(?) type one, so it's been on there a while. Had a canvas hood on it to, did it happen to come with the hood sticks etc?
Cripes Old Land Rovers really did come with an Optional Mini Convenience.
I bet it got a bit drafty for the little bloke at 80K/hr so trust you didn't hang the dunny paper roll on a bit of bent wire. [biggrin]
He seems to looking at the flat tyre & thinking "****, the old man has to fix that & I hope he's got a tie down at the back or I'm done for".[smilebigeye]
While I was looking at the brakes last night I notice that the front diff has taken a hit and the casing looks like it might be cracked (i'll know more once I've degreased and removed the silicone looking substance that is covering it)
I'm looking for some advise, should I:
- Fill the hole with weld and grind in back?
- Look for a replacement casing
- Replace it with a series 2a Diff (i have one at home that I've replaced all of the seals, bearing and most of the brake components)
Is there much difference between the Series 2 and Series 2a diff's?
Chops - I don't have the canvas and hoops [bigsad]
The axles and diffs in Series 2 and 2a are the same, except that early in Series 2a production the cone and bush top swivel bearing was replaced by a railko unit, and about the same time the steering arm moved from the top to the bottom (where it should have been from 1948. The axle housings are the same, except that the reinforced axle housing, optional for Series 2, eventually became standard, at least in Australia.
Unless you are being a rivet counter, the complete axle assembly is interchangeable up to the end of Series 3 production, as are most of the parts.
This was the story with mine, my 67 2a had the steering arm at the bottom with railko and my 63 2a was the older style with the arm at the top and a spring loaded mechanism instead of bush.
I ended up using my 67 axle assembly for the fact I was told that the earlier setup was more prone to failure... not sure how or why tho.
The only other difference I can see with the S2a v's S3 axles is that the S3 had a squared off brace where the spring u-bolts meet (front axle). The 2a's are dont so the u-bolts are on the axle housing itself if that makes sense.
Nice straight tidy old girl.
You will have hours of fun bringing it back to a roadworthy standard.
I see it has the usual carburettor modification.
Cheers, Mick.
I don't think that change happened with the S3 - isn't that the reinforced axle housing?Quote:
Originally Posted by Cap
Its the u-bolt that I think is also referred to as 'flat' type. Its for the housing that has that piece welded to the housing so the ubolt sits on that instead.
https://www.famousfour.co.uk/images/parts/ff004704.jpg
So having a look, the diff on the SWB series has the steering arm on the top and the new diff has the steering arm in the bottom.
If I fit the new diff and the steering arm position changes, are there any issues caused with the change? i.e will the tie rod arms line up, not interference with the spring...