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The tail light you show there is a 90/110/Defender light. There is a significant difference from the Series lights - the Series ones incorporate a reflector, coil sprung ones have a separate reflector, so if you keep these lights you need to provide a separate reflector. There were about four or five different tail lights fitted to Series 2/2a, and none of them are easy to find, and probably harder to find out what was originally fitted.
Thanks JDNWS!!
I'm not a rivet counter so I think I'll stick with these lights and fit a reflector (like a defender)
Tonight I fitted:
- New larger brake master cylinder (for the 11 inch front brakes)
- New air cleaner hose
Hoping to start removing the diff tomorrow night. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6bd2740658.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f35f151b2e.jpg
Coming along nicely! Just a question, for the ute cab top, do you have a plate that fits between the base of the cab at the rear and the tub? This is to fill the gap left between the two, just wondering if yours has this plate.
i have a plate sitting in my shed but it is spoken for, you could get a peice of steel folded up and reproduce your own plate if needed, i think i saw new spacer plates for sale somewhere recently.
Ian
Bittern
Cap - Can you post a picture of the plate your talking about, the series 2a that I'm using for parts may have it? If so I'd be happy to part with it!!
Is this plate that you need for a swb? My ute cab is a lwb, so I am having a bit of difficulty picturing what it is that you need.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cap
Aaron
Sorry OP for the thread hijack, wasnt intentional! The plate is only for the swb as the tub on lwb are different so not required. The plate is like this:
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/22123...-1/s-l1000.jpg
Oh my series 2a is a LWB
Adjusted the idle on the new carby this afternoon, seems to run nicely!
Adjusting the air fuel mix? How do I know if I need too?
Once the engine was up to temp I noticed some small air bubbles coming out of one of the seems on the radiator. That will need a closer look!!! Can you reseal with a solder?
Also removed the old rear diff and propshaft , ready for the reburbish one (and new propshaft). Hoping to get some time tomorrow to fit it! Maybe have a look at the brakes too. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...94de424944.jpg
You should be able to ok.
I did on my top tank in a pressed indentation.
Dropped the coolant level way down. Cleaned off the leaky bit down to shiny brass with some clean fine steel wool. Used a soft flame from a small LPG bottle to gently heat the area. From memory I think I used a brush of Bakers Soldering Solution & some 50/50% soft solder. on the cleaned spot. Still is ok but be aware another leak could pop up somewhere else another day.[bigsad]
You need to be a bit careful as the brass tank may be a bit rotten from the inside.
Good luck.