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Diff installed this evening
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I’ve been rebuilding the hubs and in following the manual came to the section that talks about converting oil to grease lubrication.
What do people recommend. I have already greased the bearings but not packed the hub so could go either way.
I’d leave them as is. Pack the bearings, not the hub, as you’ve already done and let it go - if you’ve used new bits putting it together you shouldn’t have to worry about a leak for decades again. A small weep here or there has never bothered me with any of my hubs, but I haven’t had many do it either.
I just got mine today. Not rears but fronts. So happy coz i needed new springs for the Piglet. Now ill have to fit bushes and then fit them to the front. Really stoked coz i got broken front main leafs on piglet...[emoji106] [emoji106] [emoji106] [emoji106] https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4af1001114.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...dc45205273.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Cadas
Excellent news, glad it worked out[emoji16]
Had decided to follow the advice given and not pack with grease.... a good decision I think. Just spent part of the evening stripping parts from the old axle.... that had been grease packed....don’t think the parts washer will be the same again.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadas
On the subject of cleaning....hows this for a steering box....how clean and shiny is that!
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Pity that’s how I found it when I opened it up....not a drop of oil in there. Time for a rebuild.
Well, at least it was not full of rusty water!
Back axle finished, mounted and wheels back on.
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Sid’s even got his first leak....🤣
My fault, forgot the copper washer.
Rest of time today was spent lifting tub off second Landy so I could make a jig from that to help position the replacement rear cross member
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Jig was made and fitted to the old chassis with all fixing points marked and then the jig is fitted to Sids chassis.
Bit of welding planned for tomorrow.
Rear crossmember installed today, this is my method for panels, it might be useful to someone else doing it.
First off was the jig https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c045ab66ab.jpg
Build strong enough to clamp to the chassis and ultimately be able to support the new panel.
Then comes templates https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c89d5fcb88.jpg
Cardboard cut to fit the jig and existing chassis. Green tape marks the cut lines.
The templates are then transferred to the new panel
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After cutting, if you’ve done it carefully you should get something like this. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...522d4c2737.jpg
Then it’s down to adjustment and fettling to tweak it in and pull the joints up tight.....lots of clamps help, and this is why the jig is build strong
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Welding, grinding, etc and all done. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8d60344db5.jpg
Welding not as nice as I would normally want. First time using a gas less mig and not a fan. As this was the only steel welding I can see doing I didn’t want to bother with a bottle. I’m perfectly clean new metal it’s fine, on old stuff, even cleaned it’s a bit rough.
Love the use of CAD (cardboard aided design) 👍
Wouldn’t stress about the welds not looking great, Land Rover never did a great job to start with, yours match the OEM stuff. 😁👍
While the chassis is exposed, I was looking at the spare fuel tank I have and thinking about fitting it on the left side (or at least mounting the outrigger)
From what I have researched the easiest way is to treat as separate tank with a changeover switch to a T on the main fuel line
What I haven’t found yet though are details of the under seat fill point, what does this look like?