Rebuilding Sid

I'm about half way through the tanks on mine - I modded the passenger side tank with a fill point the same as the drivers side tank and have the bits to fit a filler in the passenger side identical to the factory one, so it can be filled from outside. I am also thinking of putting a balance pipe in between them but haven't got that far yet. The under seat fill point is just that - pull the seat base and the cover under it and there's a filler in the top of the tank right there. I welded that up on mine when I did the filler mod. A tee valve is the easiest way but again, I'll be using a second pump, solenoid and fuel sender to allow a switch on the dash to change over the fuel between them including the fuel gauge - like in my XJ6 Jag, but that's just me. If you can find a standard auxiliary tank, the filler should be right where you need it already.

At some point the regulations changed and you can't have a filler inside the vehicle. No idea when this came into play but your modification would have course been carried out 'in period'......
Standard underseat filler on a Series I but Series II onwards was external. My Dormobile has the standard rear tank for a wagon plus someone has added a tank under the drivers seat. The extra tank has a Series I filler neck welded in. It uses a changeover tap from a military IIa.
My Series I has a tank under the back as well as the standard tank and uses two electric pumps and a changeover switch. As you changeover it also connects the sender for the tank being used to the fuel gauge (original owner must have used an identical sender in the additional tank that was added).

Homestar's suggestion of a standard external filler point on the passenger side seems a better idea (like the Military Series II's & IIa's). You may have to cut the rubber filler hose in half add a piece of rigid tube. Partly to allow the different angle needed and also if you're using a standard underseat tank the filler is offset to one side so the filler hose may not be long enough.



Colin

Thanks!

Prefer not to cut a second filler, I suspect this tank will be so rarely used that just having a internal filler would be fine for the occasional use.

Electric transfer pump is a thought, saves having a second fuel gauge.

More thinking to do.

You just need a switch to switch from one sender to the other. Mount it near the tap & flick the switch when you change to the other tank.

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Originally Posted by 1950landy

You just need a switch to switch from one sender to the other. Mount it near the tap & flick the switch when you change to the other tank.

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That's what I did only with switch on dash orientated left or right, tee changeover tap on front of seat box, all simple and works through standard fuel pump
You will probably find you change over tanks quiet often if they are the 10 gallon ones
its not hard to cut in a new filler in tub I probably have a spare hanging around somewhere if you want it

Cheers Paul

Cheers. I’ve got a spare filler from the parts landy I could use. But thank you for the offer.

Some thinking to do. Funnily enough I did look at a Land Rover in paramount Browns car park that had a left sided filler cap and wondered then if that was what it was for.

Been a busy week and it’s been tricky finding time for Sid, so I’ve been steadily processing bits on the rusty shelves and getting them onto the painted shelves. Sort of.

Steering box hit a brick wall, the ‘rebuild kit’ from the usual supplier didn’t work, the races are cut too deep so loads of end float without shims. New adjustable races on order.

Handbrake refurbished!


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...63f34590fa.jpg

Pedal boxes in paint. All paint stripped and then bead blasted. I’ve new bushes to fit. The oiling cap is missing from both pinions, I’ve got bolts that fit but does anyone know what the cap is made of??

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Prop shafts have been sand blasted but struggling to get the UJ’s out. Job for next week.

But progress made on the chassis. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d1ef581324.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...13fb01cf65.jpg

Front half has now been stripped, wire brushed and then sand blasted. I’ve been playing with the compressor and modifying my blast cabinet and the $50 pot from supercheap to work better. I can get to white metal with the pot on the chassis........ very slowly.......but it’s good for fiddly bits !

Next up chassis painting and dropping the front axle for a refurb.

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Originally Posted by Cadas

Pedal boxes in paint. All paint stripped and then bead blasted. I’ve new bushes to fit. The oiling cap is missing from both pinions, I’ve got bolts that fit but does anyone know what the cap is made of??
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I' m trying to work out what n "oiling cap" or a "pinion" is in relation to a pedal box. The mention of "bolts" suggests that you are talking about the covers - these are made of sheet steel about 1.6mm. But an explanation would help!

No, not them.

I meant the main trunnion rod that goes through the pedal box, on which the pedal swivels.

This trunnion has a threaded hole on one end which the manual says should be filled with oil to lubricate the bushes.

The manual shows an ‘oil plug’ which is just a 1/4 unf bolt, but also a large washer which I assume seals the bolt.

I can’t put an image up but it’s fig B-29 on page 17-B of part one of the manual.

OK - got it now. they are steel, short bolt with a copper washer - on mine the army replaced them with grease nipples!