Rebuilding Sid

Gearbox rebuild has begun. I have been trying to video... don’t think I’m going to be a YouTube star anytime soon.

Anyhow... bell housing sorted, new grommet And fully rebuilt clutch release with new bearings and bushes.

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Onto the gearbox proper, first challenge is removing the rear lay shaft bearing race. According to the manual, a bit of heat and a sharp whack with a mallet..... yeah right.

In the end it was fairly easy, but this was my method.

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Large socket, it wasn’t a tight fit so a couple if turns of insulation tape made the socket a gentle drive fit inside the bush. It only needed to be tight enough to get some purchase.

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Then applying heat to the end of the box and applying a bit of gentle twisting and it slid out.

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Reverse gear shaft went in next which is simple.

Next up was the lay shaft rebuild, but here’s the first problem.

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The first gear is from a later box, 14/29 rather than 15/30 which is what my spares are for.

So new gear on order, and play has stopped for now

Does anyone know what size circlip I need for the main gear stick mechanism.

I know which direction the old one went in.... I just forgot to measure it before it disappeared

So we finally have new parts, play restarts....mainshaft rebuild

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Two part brass bush this timehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b4673c334c.jpg

And adjusting to fit, emery paper spray glued to a flat surface

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This is a surprisingly quick process to little and check was the key, but I found you can really sneak up on the tolerance you need. Trick here is not to go to far initially. It might seem counter intuitive but at this stage I went for the biggest end float leaving bush as long as possible. I’ll come back to why

Then to adjust top bush
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This one is a pain as the first step involves adjusting end float of gear, for this the circlip has to come on a off a fair few times. Again leave as long as possible.

Finally adjusting both bushes against circlip. I had to order a new thrust washer but had to go two sizes up as one size not enough

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I could then readjust the lengths of the brass bushes with a bit more sanding to overcome the increased bush thickness. If I’d sanded the bushes to the finest tolerance I’d be relying only on the thrust washer for adjusting tolerance.

Next up is the layshaft.

As an aside, also in the box of parts was a new steering relay housing.

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I reckon this is original, certainly been on a shelf for along time

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Btw, forgot to mention, bushes were glued on with this stuff

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Yellow medium retaining fluid, same as loctite 609 but smells like lemons!

Gearbox saga continues...this middle section has been a test.

So, first challenge, getting new layshaft bearing on the shaft. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...57c98fadd2.jpg

Old bearing came off easily.

New one though took a bit of work. 6t press couldn’t do it, eventually a 12t press plus freezing the shaft and warming the bearing did the trick

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The saga wasn’t over with this bearing as I found out later.

Main bearing drifted in easily, heat is so important with this assembly, heating the case before assembly makes it all go so much easier. I used retaining fluid on the bearing housing and bearing itself.

Rest of assembly is easy, just sliding bits on. Trick is to remember to keep vertical at all times to save having to crawl under the bench to find the split washer.

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Then the fun began, first assembly didn’t work, the layshaft wasn’t sitting down in the new race. It did if I used a hammer, so clear something not right.
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A lot of testing and measurements came to unhappy conclusion that layshaft bearing was not fitting. In an earlier post I’d detailed how I got old layshaft race out, but at the time I had had to press the new race in and it seemed very tight at the time. I remember thinking ‘pity the poor sod who has to get that out’....

ha bl***y ha.

Solution was to weld a bar in the race and drift the gearbox off.

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I am coming to the conclusion that OEM is the only way to go with critical gears, etc. I am getting totally fed up by the shocking manufacturing tolerances of the generic stuff.

Next fit went together fine, although some specialist tools are needed to keep the first and reverse gears out of the way https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...320dbfbae1.jpg

Final bits
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Bell housing went on easily, bit fiddly holding the last gear and conical spacer while sliding the bell housing on.
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Final tip.... don’t get carried away and rebuild the clutch release housing before you fit bell housing, otherwise you have to take it all off to get at layshaft nut. Don’t ask me how I know.

And we’re done!

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Fitting the selector shafts was quite straightforward, the workshop manual describes the process perfectly.

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I’d replaced the oil seals which means removing all the selector yokes. They go back together easily enough as there are notches in the shaft to align everything. But some fine adjustment is needed when all three are in place to give enough clearance between the rods, but not too much to upset the racing short throw feel.

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Today’s new toys found at local market. Haggled then down from$2 each to a $1. Makes such a difference having spanners that fit the bolts.

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Gearbox back together and finished. Except this was the point I realised that the clutch release fixing bolts are still on the work bench. I am now something special at fast field stripping gearboxes so half an hour later I’d taken it all to pieces and rebuilt. Even had time to look for split washer under the bench again.

Mounting the transfer box. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a3c36076a0.jpg

This angle makes it dead easy, slipped together. Everything has now been bolted on the outside ready for mounting in the chassis tomorrow. Levers, handbrake, etc will all get fitted insitu

Gearbox is back in Sid.

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It’s been a very satisfying project. This was my first gearbox rebuild and I was nervous but I was working on the basis that I had a spare in case it went wrong. So for those tempted to have a go.

Is it easy.... well it’s not overly hard. This is not the gearbox off my 4wd Audi which scares me to even think of it. The Landy box is heavy old fashioned engineering built by man and adjusted with feeler gauges and micrometers. Taking time, reading the manual forwards and backwards is a must. The instructions are good and make sense once you start taking it apart. Cleanliness is critical as ever.

Special tools, not really, I would not want to do one without a shop press. You can drift things with a hammer, but better if you can avoid it.

Parts......go oem, the pattern parts from britpart, bearmach, etc... are a lottery. Oem will add about $150 to the rebuild cost so not that much really. Other tip is to measure the bits that come off and make sure the new bits are exactly the same. You’d be surprised. Buy two gasket sets, they are about $10 each and you’ll need them. All up I reckon the gearbox cost me $300 to rebuild with everything replaceable...replaced.

Watch the series 3 video rebuild on you tube, very similar to the 2/2a to at least give you a solid understanding of what’s going on.

Gear box finished and fully dressed
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Next up, steering relay.
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I don’t have the ‘special tool’. I did briefly try the squeeze in a vice and secure with tie wraps, but not convinced and tie wraps make it difficult to thread the shaft through.

So plan B.

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35mm notch cut in length of angle iron.
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Secure one end in a vice and gently wind down other end with clamps.

Very gentle and controlled. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7259c5f015.jpg

And plenty of room to get the bush and clip on

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Done! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...44b45c4ea4.jpg

Engine tomorrow

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cadas

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Seal housing is upside down.


Colin

Great work but the idea of rebuilding the gearbox still scares me.