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I have a home made pushrod connecting my brake master cylinder. It has been there for over 10 years, with over half of that being as a daily drive. The original bent when an attempt at a steep offroad track failed and we needed lots of brakes in reverse. I suspect that my replacement is stronger than the original. You could even get a grade 12 socket head bolt if you wanted it even stronger than grade 8. Remember that metric class 8.8 is roughly equivalent to imperial grade 5.
Aaron
Bitten the bullet and ordered a new clutch slave push rod, by my reckoning it’s about $18 per inch....
I was going to make one, but looking at the bent one it was clear that this was home made from a bolt. Better safe than sorry.
Things are progressing, sparky finished installing 3 phase in the garage today so can finally rig up a big compressor to run a sand blaster. That should move things along.
Not much progress on Sid during the week, some waiting on parts (shout out to British auto parts for overnighting stuff)
A lot of time has been spent admiring the most expensive piece of threaded bar I’ve ever owned, I’ve shown it to the kids and neighbours...... it’s even gold coloured, which feels appropriate.
Rest of the week has been spent cleaning bits and plumbing in the new toy
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ed5ec83835.jpg
That should help.
Plan is to get the hydraulics finished over the weekend and all being well, get Sid moving under his own steam.
Question though, I have the original twin outlet brake/clutch reservoir which the previous owner(s) had removed and tie wrapped to the dash. They also replaced the lines with rubber hose so I can’t tell which way around does the reservoir goes? Does the small compartment go to the clutch or brake...
Thanks
The smaller centre reservoir connects to the clutch via the bottom. Years ago, mine developed leaks where the glands screw into the reservoir. I sealed them up by putting o-rings underneath them. I contemplated soft soldering them in, but the oxy set that I had at the time was a bit too fierce.
Aaron
Yes the centre is clutch - if you think about it for a moment, it makes sense to have the larger reservoir connected to the brakes - it feeds four or six slave cylinders, and the clutch only one.
Hi, yes that was my guess, but wanted to be 100%. The tank I have has the two bottom outlets. It's cleaned up nicely and doesn't leak. I have now found the correct mounting bracket for it to go on the clutch pedal box as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
Two bottom outlets is a bit strange. Every reservoir that I have seen has one outlet on the bottom and one outlet on the side.
Aaron
Early S2 L/Rs had a reservoir with both outlets at the bottom. Part no.504135Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron IIA
.W.
Subscription sorted, reckoned I'd already had my moneys worth with the tip about removing the brake pedal box! As advised, removing the box took a fraction of the time than trying to replace the cylinder in situ..... would have been quicker if I'd realized they were captive nuts... WD40 was having no effect for a while.
Much progress has been made, and much damage has been done to left thumb with hammer, the first of many I am sure.
All wheels now sorted with new brakes on each corner, slave cylinder in place (please admire the push rod).
Attachment 151801
All connected up top
Attachment 151802
Then the fun began, clutch went easy enough but the brakes are still putting up a fight and I cannot get fluid through, there's an air leak somewhere, probably in the centre section which I didn't replace given I'll be taking the car apart in a few weeks. One more go next weekend before I give up and start to strip the body. Would still prefer to test the drive train though before disassembly and preferably with brakes as I live on a steep hill.
Attachment 151802
Another question if anyone can shed light on this; On removing the build plate which was mounted on the bulkhead (low down above tunnel) someone has drilled a lot of holes. This aligns with two threaded fixing holes on the block....any ideas what would have been fitted here?
Attachment 151803
Did you bleed all the air out of the master cyl on the bench first? You need to do that first then adjust all the brakes up till they are just dragging then bleed brakes starting from lhr, rhr, lhf, rhf. Its really easy. I dont know why so many ppl on here have so many dramas with bleeding brakes.
Oh and regards to the holes behind the plate, my s2a was butchered this way as well to replace the water plug on the back of the engine. The plate covered up the butchery.
Cheers Rod
