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Thread: Rebuilding Sid

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Tangambalanga
    Posts
    7,441
    Quote Originally Posted by 67hardtop View Post
    Did you bleed all the air out of the master cyl on the bench first? You need to do that first then adjust all the brakes up till they are just dragging then bleed brakes starting from lhr, rhr, lhf, rhf. Its really easy. I dont know why so many ppl on here have so many dramas with bleeding brakes.

    Oh and regards to the holes behind the plate, my s2a was butchered this way as well to replace the water plug on the back of the engine. The plate covered up the butchery.

    Cheers Rod

    Have I missed something here? I'm not sure I understand this exactly Rod. I didn't think I did anything special when I did mine whilst it was out of the car.
    Having said/asked this,, maybe I would have much better brakes now if I had
    The only thing I have wrong with mine as such is the snails rotate on they're own,, ,, but I've got new ones to put in now
    Marcus & Leeanne
    2016.5 Loire Blue HSE D4
    1971 S2a Wide Light
    2017 New Age 21' Blue Diamond Caravan
    2011 Crew Cab, Gone.


    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-disco...permagrin.html
    https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-ii...ide-light.html

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Blair Athol, Adelaide South Aust.
    Posts
    2,608
    That will stuff ur day up then, turning snails.

    It only takes a tiny bit of air in the system to give you spongy brakes. If the master cyl has been off it should be bled in a level position to get all the air out of it. Then u fit it. Then u fill the res up and pump fluid through to the rest of the system. But before u bleed the brakes they need to be adjusted up tightish. So u will need to fix thd snails first. If the serations are worn away u can file them a bit deeper. If its not working u can replace the snails but its a big PITA.
    Cheers, Rod


    BETSY
    1967 Series 2a. 109 4 cyl petrol, Fairey o/drive, Athol Hedges roof.
    Currently undergoing rebuild.
    Will have-- soft top, 4 wheel disc brakes, salisbury rear diff, military colour, 12 pin nato socket, dual pintle hitch....

    1975 Series 3. 109 6cyl 186, 5 speed Nissan cabstar gearbox, mechanical winch, roo bar, kings awning, 50" light bar, roof rack, twin 6"light bars, kings awning tent.

    1969 NO. 5 trailer. ARN 176 464. soft top.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    4,588
    Quote Originally Posted by 67hardtop View Post
    That will stuff ur day up then, turning snails.

    It only takes a tiny bit of air in the system to give you spongy brakes. If the master cyl has been off it should be bled in a level position to get all the air out of it. Then u fit it. Then u fill the res up and pump fluid through to the rest of the system. But before u bleed the brakes they need to be adjusted up tightish. So u will need to fix thd snails first. If the serations are worn away u can file them a bit deeper. If its not working u can replace the snails but its a big PITA.
    The problem is that aftermarket snails are made of a substance that's about as hard as cheese. Filing or using a Dremel to get the cutouts deeper on the original snails might be a better option.

    As for bleeding....I've always just topped up the master cylinder and bled. No pre-filling etc.
    The only vehicle that was an issue was the Series I and one of the many tricks (I now know) is when installing the piston in the master cylinder make sure one of the tiny holes is at the top (stops air getting trapped). We tried a couple of tricks 1. Pump up the pressure in the brake system before opening the bleed nipple (can be messy). 2. open the nipple and jump on the brake pedal. Both these options seem to surprise the air bubbles and they come out of the system.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '60 SII 109 ute (gone)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    21
    Quote Originally Posted by 67hardtop View Post
    Did you bleed all the air out of the master cyl on the bench first? You need to do that first then adjust all the brakes up till they are just dragging then bleed brakes starting from lhr, rhr, lhf, rhf. Its really easy. I dont know why so many ppl on here have so many dramas with bleeding brakes.

    Oh and regards to the holes behind the plate, my s2a was butchered this way as well to replace the water plug on the back of the engine. The plate covered up the butchery.

    Cheers Rod
    Water plug.... that makes sense.

    Yes bench bled system, etc. but obvious that there’s an air leak somewhere in the system as it won’t pressure up. Tried a vacuum line and wouldn’t hold a vacuum.

    Took off the old pipes last night and couldn’t see anything but out of curiosity I took off a couple of the new lines I’d bought. They don’t seem to be bedding properly. These had a bubble flare that doesn’t seem to be working properly. Took all new lines off and found several that aren’t seating. Will sit and reflare them all tonight..... so much for new pipes making it easy.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Blair Athol, Adelaide South Aust.
    Posts
    2,608
    They sometimes need a gentle twist as u tighten them to make them seat properly but it one of those "feel" jobs. You have to have a sortof feel for it as you gently tighten the pipe up you sort of "lap" the pipe in to seat it. Undo it turn it a little bit, then do it up again, repeat a couple times then tighten and test. At least thats how ive done mine, tho i am a mechanic and ive done it lots of times over the decades. Those bubble fittings are the worst with new pipes. They seldom need re-doing unless there is damage.
    Cheers
    Cheers, Rod


    BETSY
    1967 Series 2a. 109 4 cyl petrol, Fairey o/drive, Athol Hedges roof.
    Currently undergoing rebuild.
    Will have-- soft top, 4 wheel disc brakes, salisbury rear diff, military colour, 12 pin nato socket, dual pintle hitch....

    1975 Series 3. 109 6cyl 186, 5 speed Nissan cabstar gearbox, mechanical winch, roo bar, kings awning, 50" light bar, roof rack, twin 6"light bars, kings awning tent.

    1969 NO. 5 trailer. ARN 176 464. soft top.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    21
    Quote Originally Posted by 67hardtop View Post
    They sometimes need a gentle twist as u tighten them to make them seat properly but it one of those "feel" jobs. You have to have a sortof feel for it as you gently tighten the pipe up you sort of "lap" the pipe in to seat it. Undo it turn it a little bit, then do it up again, repeat a couple times then tighten and test. At least thats how ive done mine, tho i am a mechanic and ive done it lots of times over the decades. Those bubble fittings are the worst with new pipes. They seldom need re-doing unless there is damage.
    Cheers
    thanks for that, I had a play with some old pipe and fittings in the garage and understand what you mean. Got better seating. I also realised there was a fair amount of user error. I have never used steel pipe before. on the previous cars I have restored in Europe, I only ever used copper or copper nickel. I was taught then to just 'nip up' the brake lines and not over tighten. I don't think I have been doing the steel lines up tight enough.... practising on the bench has given me a better idea.....thanks everyone.
    Paul

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Blair Athol, Adelaide South Aust.
    Posts
    2,608
    Yeah gotta be tight. Not snap off tight but tight
    Cheers, Rod


    BETSY
    1967 Series 2a. 109 4 cyl petrol, Fairey o/drive, Athol Hedges roof.
    Currently undergoing rebuild.
    Will have-- soft top, 4 wheel disc brakes, salisbury rear diff, military colour, 12 pin nato socket, dual pintle hitch....

    1975 Series 3. 109 6cyl 186, 5 speed Nissan cabstar gearbox, mechanical winch, roo bar, kings awning, 50" light bar, roof rack, twin 6"light bars, kings awning tent.

    1969 NO. 5 trailer. ARN 176 464. soft top.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    21

    Rebuilding Sid

    Well plans have changed and with us moving on to the next phase.

    After a second weekend attempting to bleed the brakes I've given up. Cannot get brake fluid past the master cylinder without having a vacuum line attached. No idea! Wondering if the cylinder is faulty, correct, etc.

    As the plan was just too get it moving to test the gearbox, I've decided to move on so Sid will begin getting dismantled today for a chassis up rebuild.

    On the upside, went parts hunting yesterday and collected a new immaculate rear axle and seat box.

    Also found a chap in Adelaide with 6 or 7 S2's and 3's in various stages of disassembly, he seems to be wrecking then all for mechanicals but has the bodies and chassis. Several perfect chassis and bulkheads for sale. He knows what they are worth though.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    21
    Pleasant afternoon working outside. Adelaide weather is glorious today.

    Rear tub and cab now separated. Easier than I had feared, nothing needed grinding off. Not sure if stock, but the bolts to the outriggers behind the seats had been converted to captive nuts by welding two nuts to a 4” strip of steel. Neat.

    Couple of bolts were stuck but old fashioned method of using a long breaker bar to tighten them up rather than undoing them and they snapped off easily.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    22,799
    Quote Originally Posted by Cadas View Post
    Pleasant afternoon working outside. Adelaide weather is glorious today.

    Rear tub and cab now separated. Easier than I had feared, nothing needed grinding off. Not sure if stock, but the bolts to the outriggers behind the seats had been converted to captive nuts by welding two nuts to a 4” strip of steel. Neat.

    Couple of bolts were stuck but old fashioned method of using a long breaker bar to tighten them up rather than undoing them and they snapped off easily.
    Standard
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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