Thread: Series IIa Motor Rebuild.

Assuming that is the static timing, it should be advanced from that for 9:1. Advance the distributor with it idling for the best running and give that a go.

Also make sure that both centrifugal and vacuum advance are working.

Apsrt from these, especially if it seems to be running too rich, I would suspect the carburettor, possibly something dried out while not used, or if you overhauled it, incorrect assembly (but I'm not familiar with the Stromberg).

Thank you John. Frida Turner (of Turner Engineering) replied to the same emailed query not 10 minutes ago and suggested that the timing should be in the 3 - 6 deg BTDC range. Without being familiar with the carb on the vehicle, she too suggested that it's all in the timing. I exchanged the carb for a rebuilt model a couple of years ago so it should be fine, except for the over fueling problem but, of course, sitting idle for 7 months was never going to do it any favours. I see you're from the Central West. I'm a Blayney boy myself.

The timing mark is irrelevant with your mods. But the strobe should at least tell you if the vac advance & mechanical advance are working. AS JD says, advance the distributor for best running whilst its idling ( rev it too, to make sure there is no backfiring etc) , go for a drive , if it pings back it off a little, If it does not ping under load advance it some more. Make sure the choke is not stuck on.

As the other have said your mods will mean it should run further advanced than normal.
Mine with the same mods runs 8 degrees advanced.
I put a Weber on mine to solve the overfuelling Stromberg but that may not be necessary in your case. My Stromberg needed an overhaul and the new Weber was offered instead.

I was just going through my Haynes manual and it states that the 7:1 head should be around 6 deg BTDC and the 8:1 head should be around TDC. I guess I'll start there and see where it takes me. Thank you all for your input, it's been enlightening and appreciated.

Before you go too far when you are checking timing you should remove vacuum advance hose from distributer and block it. Then start engine and idle it whilst you check the advance and adjust until engine is running easy. If you go too far it will start to sound like it is labouring not enough and it will sound dull. Check degrees with strobe light bringing engine up through the revs you should see a change in advance this is the mechanical advance weights moving the points plate in the distributor. If you do not see an advance check the distributor plates for free movement, you can do this easily by manually rotating the rotor button left to right the internal springs should return the plate back to original position each time. Then reconnect vacuum advance pipe, restart engine and check advance you will see a larger reading as you rev the engine if the vacuum advance diaphragm is working.
As for the flooding the first thing to check after the choke being stuck on is the needle and seat condition and the float level either one of these things can cause flooding.

Good luck Gippy

Originally Posted by Phil B

As the other have said your mods will mean it should run further advanced than normal.
Mine with the same mods runs 8 degrees advanced.
I put a Weber on mine to solve the overfuelling Stromberg but that may not be necessary in your case. My Stromberg needed an overhaul and the new Weber was offered instead.

Hey Phil, having endless issues with my carburettor, distributor and coil having been replaced. Is your Weber the dual throat model or the single throat?

Single barrel.
I’ll get you the model number if you like.
It did tend to run a little lean out of the box but that was easily fixed with the next size up main jet.
Been running for 3 yrs now with zero adjustment.
Have you advanced the timing?