Thread: Series 2a oil pressure problem

you will need to trace the wiring to the oil switch , try earthing out the wire and not earthing it and see if the light goes off and on, If so the oil switch is faulty. if not the wiring has a problem somewhere.
Similar thing with the cold start choke swicth, trace the wirng and test the wire to earth and not.

Good luck

Ian
Bittern

over time the internal seal in the switch fails. when this lets go the spring is able to overcome the oil pressure as the oil passes around the seal equalising the pressure.

couple of bets for you on the oil pressure switch front.

1. if you leave it long enough without starting the light will go out momentarily on the next start up then flicker a little and come on hard.
2. there will be a sign of oil leaking out of the connection or the crimp that holds the cover cap on.

drop the lead off the oil pressure switch and check out what it does to the bulb, if it goes out, short the lead to earth and it should come back on.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

over time the internal seal in the switch fails. when this lets go the spring is able to overcome the oil pressure as the oil passes around the seal equalising the pressure.

couple of bets for you on the oil pressure switch front.

1. if you leave it long enough without starting the light will go out momentarily on the next start up then flicker a little and come on hard.
2. there will be a sign of oil leaking out of the connection or the crimp that holds the cover cap on.

drop the lead off the oil pressure switch and check out what it does to the bulb, if it goes out, short the lead to earth and it should come back on.

And order a replacement switch!

Originally Posted by JDNSW

And order a replacement switch!

nahh, the piston coming out the block will let you know when it finally ran out of oil pressure if you dont hear them slapdancing because the radio was up too loud.

The cold start has two switches one on the engine some wear that switches the light on & one on the choke cable The power goes from the light to the switch on the choke to the switch on the engine & earths there .

The switch on the engine is at the front of the head and held in with three screws. The switch on the choke cable is just behind the panel, where it is operated by the rigid bit the knob is attached to.

I remember back when I worked for a Leyland dealership those otter switches had a high mortality rate , we were always replacing them on the P76's . I don't think they were sealed very well & if they got wet the water would get into them . The ones I opened when writing warranty clams almost all were water affected in side.
Jags & Rovers didn't seam to have the same problem but the problem may have been fixed by the time we were JRA dealers.

Wow, I should have also added I'm also a first time forum user, I didn't think anyone would even read it let alone respond, sincere thanks to all. I'll follow your advice and see how I go.