RoverLord
You know, there is no real need for splines on the tool - I made mine on the lathe! An emergency one made in the middle of the Simpson in 1966 was a bit cut off a broom handle plus layers of insulating tape.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Master
I also ran my brake lines where I thought best to keep them out of the way but I had a few minor clashes around the front of the vehicle and saw some wisdom in LRs original routingOriginally Posted by akelly
I also ran the wiring for the rear lighting outside the chassis rather than through it
Cheers Paul
ChatterBox
Pretty much how I did my last one. Some aluminium tube with wrapped insulation tape to correct the diameter.
Wizard
Today's update: got the rear end back together, diff centre in, brakes, hubs etc... Waiting for drums to come back from machining. I didn't use the garbage locktabs on the stub axle bolts - just locktite. And I forgot to grab split pins when I was at the shops.... job for tomorrow.
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Chucked the rear main seal in some oil so I can fit that tomorrow then get the flywheel and clutch back on ready for the motor to go in.
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Getting there but the delay on the bulkhead outrigger delivery is really starting to be irritating. I'll finish off the brake lines tomorrow and do the front brakes. I have swivel hub rebuild kits but no time to do them right now, they'll have to wait until next year.
Wizard
big day today. Started with fitting up the RHS 16 gallon tank, which promptly fouled on the shackle pin and doesn't fit. I cannot see for the life of me how anyone who had one of these tanks made here in Melbourne could have fitted it to the car. So anyway I marked out the area that fouls and a mate is going to notch both sides out for me so they actually fit.
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so stymied on that task I got on with painting the rims. After testing the "hogs bristle" rattle can the other week I then found a tin of "classic cream" I must have bought at some point for this job, so I mixed it up 4:1 and shot a few coats on the rims. I haven't painted with a gun for about 25yrs but after watching a few youtube vids (the gunman is very good) it came back to me no worries.
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Really pleased with how they look. I think the weather looks crook here tomorrow, so I'll do the back side on Wednesday.
Then I got on with replacing the rear main seal in the 186. I was pleased to find an alloy cam gear in there, and everything looks to be in good order. A new bottom end gasket set and I gave the waterpump a birthday while I was on a roll - just needed a good cleanup after sitting for years.
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Last bit of stuff today was printing a new wheel for the magna tex indicator switch. I did a CAD model of the whole wheel assembly then kind of eyeballed the dimensions for the wheel. Printed in TPU, which is a flexible material a bit like stiff rubber. Looks OK, will see how it works when I get to putting the dash together.
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Now I'm buggered so that's it for today.
ForumSage
SupporterI've got one fitted and I parted out a diesel shorty with one fitted some years back.
It's close against the shackle pin (tank has to be dropped to remove the pin) but there is clearance.
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
Wizard
engine back in today. Fitted up the new 9.5" clutch, used the printed alignment tool - worked great.
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Not much else to report today.
[EDIT]
late update from mate who is notching the fuel tanks for me. He's finished one side. Looks great.
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Wizard
SupporterI'm really enjoying this thread. Great work - keep it up!
John
Wizard
SupporterP.S. I've been carrying around a cut-off section of broom handle for years for aligning clutches. But that printed one certainly is impressive.
Wizard
A few updates from the last couple of days. Been battling with an issue where the bellhousing and gearstick foul on the tunnel cover and diaphragm. Previously it had a butchered 6cyl bulkhead and tunnel cover and they've been cut and modified to make things fit. After swearing for a couple of days with a tape measure and spirit level I worked out the issue - the holden motor is kicked up at the front as it would be in a holden. This kicks the gearbox up and back and causes all the drama. So I pulled the engine mounts and lowered the engine to where it the gearbox sits level - then my welder mate came and took the engine mounts away to modify them to suit.
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The bulkhead outrigger finally arrived so I glued that in. I chopped the plate off it comes welded to and stuck it direct to the chassis as per original. I'm not the best welder but it's nice and strong and the grinder makes it look nice.
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Now I'm finally able to finish the bulkhead. I just need to make a strip to fill in this gap between the centre section of the bulkhead and the diaphragm. I'll get that done tomorrow.
Screen Shot 2020-12-06 at 5.20.04 pm.jpg
That will let me bolt everything back on for the front.
Other minor job this morning before it rained was to clean up the brake drums and paint them. I've done all the wheel bearings, kits through the front wheel cylinders and new rears, new gaskets and replaced all the distance pieces on the stub axles. I have new front swivel hubs to go on but I'm running out of time before we move house, so that's a job for later.
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A few things still left to go and not much time....
Oh, and if you're after any IIA parts keep an eye on the for sale section because I have a bunch of stuff that is excess to requirements now and needs to get gone fast...
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