Certainly looks like a packer. Mine doesn’t have the packer and the slave sits directly on the pressed steel bracket.
Gday, need to replace the clutch in the old girl. Read on a providers web page that if there is a 1/4” spacer between the slave and mounting bracket my clutch is a 9.5” instead of 9”. Is this the case with my vehicle? Pic of my slave...2EB19513-28B3-432E-BB61-47817DF608AA.jpg
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						SubscriberCertainly looks like a packer. Mine doesn’t have the packer and the slave sits directly on the pressed steel bracket.
I’ve always found it better to order parts when you have the old bits out - particularly clutches, as there seems to be such a variety that could have been used. If you have the option, I’d pull the old one first and measure it, certainly if your buying from OS or online and can’t easily swap it or return it.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Without actually completely disassembling it, you can, after you remove the floor and transmission tunnel, remove the gearstick and see through the inspection opening that it's bracket covers whether you have the 9 or 9.5" clutch. The former has coil springs with three fingers, the latter has a diaphragm spring with a large number of fingers and a disc attached to them.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
aKelly on here had a thread about this recently.
The thread is called "flywheel ID" and it's in the Holden Powered Series section.
The photo below is from that thread.
You would think that there would be enough threaded adjustment in the mechanism to take up 1/4"
Cheers, Mick.
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
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						SupporterI found a spacer on my series 3 clutch slave that is the same as the first photo.
I havent found spacers on the series 11 type as per second photo
i would use the existing spacer and adjust the pedal as needed to suit themater cylinder
Ian
Bittern
yeah I went down this rabbit hole last year. If you can I'd pull the old one first. I wanted to go to the 9.5" and there is a bit of mucking about involved - different flywheel dowels and the master cyl spacer issue. I cannot find anywhere a consistent thickness for the spacer so my plan is to make some thin ones and add/subtract as needed to get the right pedal.
In case you didn't see it, I also made up a 3D printed alignment tool if you need one. Shown in post #10 here: My IIA refresh... I know a bunch of people will talk up a broomstick and tape, but having done plenty of clutches this is the best tool I've used (except for an actual input shaft).
Cheers,
Adam
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