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Thread: Some minor issues after Cooma

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    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Some minor issues after Cooma

    Shortly after I got back from Cooma, I went along the road along my boundary to inspect the effects of the rain while I was away. At one location I knew about the erosion gutter across the road, so I I drove over it very slowly, knowing it was about six inches deep and wide.

    Unfortunately, the Cooma sticker for where I fitted in the parade stopped me from getting a close look at it as I approached it - it is now about 18" deep and the same wide, so we came to an abrupt stop (fortunately wearing seat belts). Also, fortunately, I was able to simply back out in low range.

    However, I noticed a new noise on some bumps after this. Closer inspection revealed that the LH front spring had the main leaf broken just behind the front eye.

    Not to worry, I have a spare - attached to a Series 3 I have that is gradually reducing to its component parts - the RH front spring is already on my 2a. So yesterday, having sort of recovered from the covid I brought back from Cooma, I attacked the issue of removing the spring from the Series 3. There were a few problems to solve such as identifying what tools were needed, and I did not get much done except to get the wheel off, and generously spray all the things I would need to undo with WD40.

    Today I got back to it. Everything undid easily, with the U-bolts coming undone with little effort (although spanner all the way - they are nyloc nuts). What really surprised me though was that once the nuts were off, both shackle bolts easily unscrewed with a socket drive in my 12v battery drill. I think it is the first time I have ever had so little trouble.

    Spring is now back in the workshop, now all I have to do is check it out, clean it up, paint and grease it, and replace the bushes. Then remove the spring from the 2a. I hope it comes out that easily!
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    Somewhat predictably, spent most of yesterday and part of today getting the first old bush out. The second one came out with my puller, albeit not very easily. That was enough for me for the day.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    Well, got the replacement spring ready to install. Now all we need is to pull the old one out. What could possibly go wrong?

    First issue that reared its head, apart from nuts just being tight, was that the centre bolt is broken - and the head embedded in the recess in the axle. See the picture - shiny because I wire brushed it - it has not been moving.

    Then my rattle gun declined to loosen the shackle bolt on the rear eye of the spring. This may have been because the bushes absorbed the impacts.

    No problem. Undo the chassis bolt. Yes, this came out no problems - and revealed the bush needs to be replaces. I do not imagine this will be easy.

    Transferred the spring, minus the bottom few leaves and the centrebolt, to the vice to undo the other shackle bolt. Rattle gun still would not look at it, until I loosened it a couple of turns using my 18" breaker bar with three feet of waterpipe as an extension.
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    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    First issue that reared its head, apart from nuts just being tight, was that the centre bolt is broken - and the head embedded in the recess in the axle. See the picture - shiny because I wire brushed it - it has not been moving.
    Is there enough protrusion there to weld a big nut onto it? I've found often the localised heat from the weld will help break a bolt loose where an oxy just spreads the injury.
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

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    JDNSW's Avatar
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    There is no protrusion - it is flush. The bolt broke at the top of the shank/bottom of the head. I plan to drill a hole in it, as close to central as I can manage, and enlarge it to a good part of the diameter - I suspect the hole in the axle housing is deeper than the bolt head so there is a hollow behind it, allowing me to drill right through the bolt head.

    My first effort will be to try an Esyout, or if there is enough cavity behind it, tap the hole as deep as possible and screw a HT bolt into it, if necessary with a short section having the thread ground off. This will jack it out if it refuses to turn, if it turns it should be easy to lever out. Centre bolts are not particularly hard, so I don't anticipate problems drilling it. (the nut end of the centrebolt has been peened over to make sure the nut stays on, suggesting the bolt is not very hard.)
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    Got the head of the centrebolt out by drilling a hole in it, screwing a large self tapper in and levering under the head of the self tapper with a tyre lever.

    That left us with the bush in the chassis. It refused to move with my puller, and I did consider calling it serviceable. But ultimately decided "if you are doing a job do it properly". So I spent a large part of today getting it out. Drilled through the rubber in a couple of paces - problem is, i don't have a drill thin enough but also long enough to go right through the rubber. Then twisted it free from the rubber using a large esyout.

    Next step scrape the rubber out, and hacksaw through the outer shell without damaging the sleeve in the chassis. That took hours.


    Then clean the hole out - and find that the bush I have is a floating fit rather than a press fit. What to do?

    Eventually ratted through the parts cupboard, and found a urethane bush set the right size. I decided I would use it - the chassis bush is less critical than the spring bushes.

    From there it was just a matter of assembling things. A lot of nuts to do up, get antiseize all over your hands, fiddling about getting the centrebolt head into its socket, but eventually got everything back together, the wheel back on, and the chassis off the stands.

    Now just need to loosen the shackle bolts, go for a short drive, and then tighten them and check tighten everything else.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    All done. And I got a small load of firewood today as well. Tomorrow plan to go to an auction in it (about 20km each way).
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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