Thread: Newbie question - oil cap

Both of the standard caps shown in your pictures have a sort of filter inside them. It is a wire mesh type, that when oily will stop ingression of dirt. Wash it from time to time and then re-moisten with oil.
Aaron.

G'day Dauntless

OK, you have a late 2a Suffix "G" chassis which would have originally been fitted with a "closed" ventilation system, very inefficient, which has been removed and the earlier "open " ventilation system 1958-1969 has been fitted, the oil filler cap (Flameproof type) has a wire gauze inside as a filter (any fumes only exit from this filler) this can and should be washed in petrol/cleaner regularly, the breather on top of the rocker cover also has a wire mesh gauze in it, this should also be cleaned regularly as the motor breathes through it (atmospheric pressure) there would be no advantage in changing to a foam type breather, on reading your compression readings, there does not appear to be any problems with the motor, if it is showing signs of oil at or around the rocker breather, then the timing could be a little out, as that is the easiest and best way to note when timing or points need adjusting

points should be at 014-016 thou inch and the timing set at 6 degrees before Top Dead Centre, you may have a service plate on the vehicle that states the timing at 2-3 deg After Top Dead Centre that is the setting for the Anti Pollution equipt motor (De-Toxed) so if your timing is a little out then you might experience slightly hard starting and slow pick up with increased fuel usage,Plugs should be Champion N8 or NGK B6ES. Hope that is of some help

BTW those headlight in guard 2a's are getting quite rare now
cheers

Originally Posted by UncleHo

G'day Dauntless

OK, you have a late 2a Suffix "G" chassis which would have originally been fitted with a "closed" ventilation system, very inefficient, which has been removed and the earlier "open " ventilation system 1958-1969 has been fitted, the oil filler cap (Flameproof type) has a wire gauze inside as a filter (any fumes only exit from this filler) this can and should be washed in petrol/cleaner regularly, the breather on top of the rocker cover also has a wire mesh gauze in it, this should also be cleaned regularly as the motor breathes through it (atmospheric pressure) there would be no advantage in changing to a foam type breather, on reading your compression readings, there does not appear to be any problems with the motor, if it is showing signs of oil at or around the rocker breather, then the timing could be a little out, as that is the easiest and best way to note when timing or points need adjusting

points should be at 014-016 thou inch and the timing set at 6 degrees before Top Dead Centre, you may have a service plate on the vehicle that states the timing at 2-3 deg After Top Dead Centre that is the setting for the Anti Pollution equipt motor (De-Toxed) so if your timing is a little out then you might experience slightly hard starting and slow pick up with increased fuel usage,Plugs should be Champion N8 or NGK B6ES. Hope that is of some help

BTW those headlight in guard 2a's are getting quite rare now
cheers

Hey mate, thanks for the info. I doubt my Landy has had the crankcase ventilation system modified, as it has been in my family since the early 70's.

I intend to replace the points with either Lumenition or Pertronix Ignitor so I can use a hotter coil.

As for starting and running, it starts very easily. I haven't taken it above about 40km/h due to the dodgy tyres and the brakes don't work, so I have no idea if it lacks power or response. I'm running BP5ES in it at the moment.

G'day Dauntless

I run B6ES at the moment as I get between 10-20 thousand miles out of them BP5ES may be a little hot for it , and unless you have an 8:1 Compression head BP (Projecting centre electrode) will burn the pistons, you can check for the Comp ratio by looking at the flat bit on the side of the head between the head studs about the carby area, if it has an "8" stamped there it is an 8:1 head if plain it is the standard 7:1 head, most export vehicles, including Australia only got 7:1 Comp Heads

If the brakes need doing up I would suggest that you upgrade to 11inch LWB brakes Front and Rear, just locate a wrecked LWB (probably through this site) and get the brakes complete from backing plate out, with Master Cylinder, (larger cylinder) then it is only a case of changing the lot over from the hub outwards, as a package and then installing the Master Cylinder LWB=1" inch bore SWB is only 3/4"inch bore "this is a MUST if upgrading from SWB to LWB " as I have seen several accidents and am aware of 2 fatals because of non-changing M/Cylinders

If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask or PM

cheers

Thanks for that mate. B6ES is specified for the 7:1 models, and BP5ES for the 8:1 models, correct? I cannot buy B6ES locally, they must be ordered in. Although the numbers would suggest otherwise, I am thinking that a BP5ES would not be any hotter than a B6ES due to the projected electrode.

Also, why would a lower compression engine require a colder plug than a higher compression version of the same engine?

Did all 109's have 11" brakes with 2 leading shoes on the front, and 1 leading/1 trailing on the rear?

G'day Dauntless

Yes, All 2/2a/3 4 cylinder LWB's had 11" brakes, the 6 cylinder had 3"inch wide front brakes but the standard rear,(they require the use of a booster) the standard 2 1/4 inch shoes of the LWB willstop the SWb well as it will bring you up to at least disc front drum rear standard of a 80's/90s car "A lot better than the 50's Pom car"

run with the BP5ES plugs and see how it goes, if it runs hot use Champion N8's

cheers