Thread: Ideas for a "2A" box trailer pls

Originally Posted by JDNSW

... at the moment I am thinking of a tubular axle with a Series stub axle bolted on each end, although I have seen suggestions that solid one piece axles are mandated, so this may need modification.

John

John you hear that quite a bit, however I have not found it in any of the publications from the RTA or DOTARS (Like VSB 01 Building Small Trailers ).

If someone were to suggest that only solid axles are permissible, then ask them about "Duratorque" suspensions which only have stub axles or the axles on semi-trailers which are welded square section.

Diana

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

John you hear that quite a bit, however I have not found it in any of the publications from the RTA or DOTARS (Like VSB 01 Building Small Trailers ).

If someone were to suggest that only solid axles are permissible, then ask them about "Duratorque" suspensions which only have stub axles or the axles on semi-trailers which are welded square section.

Diana

Yes, I can't find anything written either. My present plan is to cut a few inches off each end of an axle housing and turn them down to fit a suitable piece of steam pipe - automatically taking care of the problem of making sure the flange is on straight and fits the stub axle.

John

Originally Posted by 69gs

Hi Numpty,

Does the tub fit on No 5 Trailer?

Cheers

Richard

For those of us (myself included) who are not ex-military, can someone provide a link to an explanation of the various types of military trailer which seem to be referred to fairly often here?

ie What are trailers nos 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, ???

Thanks

Doug

Originally Posted by JDNSW

Yes, I can't find anything written either. My present plan is to cut a few inches off each end of an axle housing and turn them down to fit a suitable piece of steam pipe - automatically taking care of the problem of making sure the flange is on straight and fits the stub axle.

John

I could be wrong John, but I believe solid in this context refers to drawn tube or pipe (as in steam pipe), rather than welded.

As you would be aware, pipe is usually stronger than solid bar anyway, and a deal lighter.

I have heard though, that it's not legal to use a diff housing as a trailer axle assembly.

Originally Posted by numpty

... I have heard though, that it's not legal to use a diff housing as a trailer axle assembly.

Numpty

I have heard that also, however I believe it was put in place because people remove the diff, then the axles are not supported which results in the semi-floating bearings failing and the wheel heading west into the never never. With the design of the Land Rover stub axles and hubs the absence of the axle does not interfere with the alignment and support of the hub, so should be O.K.

A friend is currently making up a trailer with exactly the design John seems to be indicating. What he has done is cut the original housing on the inside of the spring plates with the intention of sleeving inside the original to support and align it exactly with the steam pipe. That way he can use all standard LR parts, shock absorbers, springs etc.

How would you prevent oil leaks from the hubs? Would you use a Welsh plug inside the LR stub axle or use grease for the bearings?

Another method for the axle, and something I had considered was to have a solid axle machined to be a press fit inside the LR stub axles. Then use an interrupted weld between the back of the flange and the solid axle.

The flange is then used to support the brake backing plates. Have not seen it done but feel it would be an effective method.

Diana

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

Numpty

..........
How would you prevent oil leaks from the hubs? Would you use a Welsh plug inside the LR stub axle or use grease for the bearings?

Another method for the axle, and something I had considered was to have a solid axle machined to be a press fit inside the LR stub axles. Then use an interrupted weld between the back of the flange and the solid axle.

The flange is then used to support the brake backing plates. Have not seen it done but feel it would be an effective method.

Diana

I would simply use grease and, as you suggest, a welsh plug or similar - probably actually a turned plug welded into the axle to limit how far the grease can go.

I have considered the solid axle approach, but as you say, tube will be lighter, and my intention is a trailer that does not need to be braked (and still have a satisfactory load) - simpler construction and cheaper registration, but more importantly does not require an annual inspection, which is a real pain when you live out of town - you take a trailer into town, and you have very restricted parking options.

John

I have a trailer made from the rear end of a swb landrover, it uses the original chassis,axle,wheels etc. and it works very well.
If you look at my "introduction" you can see a picture of it hooked up to my landrover.I could email you a few pics of it if you like or you are more than welcome to drop in and have a look.
I'm hoping to turn it into a camper trailer one day

The Aust. No. 5 trailer is the Army trailer used behind Land Rovers. They have a single tubular drawbar, and a sort of ring-feeder at the rear. The wheels are inboard of the perimeter, under sqared arches in the load bay. They are amphibious, and appear the same as the British Sankey trailer. No brakes. The hood bow runs from front to back. These are common, and still in use.

The Aust. No. 4 trailer is the Army trailer used behind WWII Jeeps. They have a C-section A-frame drawbar, and a 2" bung in the rear, which can be replaced by a tap. The wheels are outboard of the perimeter, under flat three sided arches, when built by GMH-W (General Motors Holden Woodville or War Effert) and round arches, when built by Bantom (who made prototype Jeeps). They were also made by other companies. They are amphibious. The GMH-W units have no brakes, while the Bantom units have ratchet parking brakes with shock absorbers. The hood bow runs from left to right. These are common.

The Aust. No. 3 trailer is the same as the Aust. No. 4 trailer, except that they have a pintile hook at the rear instead of the 2" bung. These are not common.

Aaron.